By John Gutekanst
Photos by  Josh Keown

Sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens once said: “What garlic is to food, insanity is to art.” I’m so crazy about garlic that you can’t go three feet in my pizzeria without bumping into it.

Brown bags filled with local organic garlic hang in my walk-in waiting to be infused in bread or garlic pudding (read on — trust me).

I keep garlic scape pesto made from the springtime trimmings of the plants for use in my freezer. Five-pound tubs of raw, skinned garlic from California that costs approximately 12 cents an ounce sit chilling in my walk-in for roasting and eventual topping on pizzas. Our garlic butter is bought in one-gallon tubs for nine cents an ounce and the garlic powder we store at room temperature can be obtained in seven-pound tubs for 32 cents an ounce. This powder is used in almost all of our sauces, sausage, meatballs and even dipping sauces.

Last year I prepped and sold 1,695 pounds of purveyor-bought garlic for my specialty pies, single topping pizzas and calzones. I also used 184 pounds of local, organic garlic for my infused breads and artisan pizzas. But still, my ignorance of garlic reared its ugly head when I recently visited Rich Tomsu at his organic garlic farm in Shade, Ohio. I followed Rich through the woods before we came to a large field overgrown with waist-high weeds. Rich stopped in the tangle of high sharp brambles as the thorn stabbed at me. “So, how far is your garlic field?” I asked impatiently, slapping at a mosquito.

“Are you kidding me, John?” Rich chuckled in reply as he stopped. “We’ve been walking in it since the forest!” He started to guffaw loudly and doubled over in laugh-pain. After a few more minutes, he straightened and asked: “Dude, how long have you been familiar with garlic?”

“Ah, like 36 years.” I said meekly. “But I’ve never seen it grown in weeds.” Rich straightened and said: “John, we farm organically and don’t spray toxic chemicals.” Then he reached down and grasped a three-foot sugarcane-like weed stem from the earth. He pulled with very little effort and shoved it in my face. It was the largest garlic bulb I’d ever seen. “Elephant garlic?” I stated ignorantly. “No, this is called German Hardy,” he said proudly. “You won’t find this in any grocery store. The best garlic in the world only grows without chemicals.” That afternoon was an eye opening experience for me. Now I try to obtain organic garlic locally, but when I cannot, I try to at least buy from American growers.

There are so many ways to prepare garlic and, like the onion, this simple clove can be rendered into many forms, one recipe atop another. This is what I call “the mushroom cloud effect” or a compilation of ever-expanding recipes starting with one item and stepping it up a culinary ladder to Mount Scrumptious!

“Gnudi Patooties”

Yes, this is a real dork of a name but my customers love these at catered events. Don’t get frustrated if you mess the first one up, they get faster to make as you go. (Add one pepperoni for a more complex flavor profile if you want.)

1 9-ounce dough ball
1 cup shredded mozzarella/provolone-mix
½ cup pizza sauce
20 gnudi from recipe on page 38
1 cup egg wash (70 percent whipped eggs with 30 percent water)

Take a full sheet pan and place parchment on it. Roll out the dough ball thinly into as much of a square as possible. Cut 10 to 20 small 2½ x 2½ inch squares with a pizza cutter. Place five strands of cheese in the middle of each square. Dab a small dollop of pizza sauce the size of a dime on the cheese. Place the cooked gnudi on the pizza and top with five more strands of cheese.

Grab two corners from polar opposite sides and fold one atop the other. Repeat with the final two corners and press the dough on top to stick the corners together.

Eggwash the dough and place on the parchment. Cook at 475 F for six or seven minutes to a golden brown.



Roasted Garlic Cloves and Garlic-infused Oil

Let’s start our first date with you, some garlic cloves, oil, an old pizza pan and your oven ... and maybe a Barry White song for ambiance.

2 cups (14 ounces or about 135 cloves) raw, skinned garlic cloves (If they are small, use less time to cook.)
1 cup extra virgin olive oil or canola-olive oil blend

Pour garlic cloves into a pan and toss with half the oil. Cook in your conveyor or deck oven for 7 minutes at 475 degrees. Take out and toss the garlic again. It will start to color but still be hard. Pour the rest of the oil in the pan. Set aside for the garlic to cool.

After 15 minutes, toss again and cook for another 4 to 7 minutes. The garlic will now be golden brown and soft to the touch.

Separate the oil from the garlic using a colander with a bowl below it to catch the oil.

Uses: Reserve the garlic for bread dough, toppings or the garlic pudding, (recipe on page 39). Cool the oil to infuse any liquids, pizzas or breads with that great garlic taste.



The Garligula

This Tuscan gnudi and sausage pizza layers all the garlic recipes in this article together.

Form your own pizza dough and top with a thin sheen of your proprietary pizza sauce. Over the sauce, spread fresh spinach then dollop quartershaped splotches of garlic pudding (recipe on page 39) around the pie.

Place just enough mozzarella/provolone mix to barely cover. Place Italian sausage chunks, roasted red pepper strips and black olives around the pizza then place one gnudi (recipe on page 38) in the middle of what will become each slice in a spokewheel effect.

Before serving, drizzle with a little garlic oil. Enjoy warm but don’t talk to anyone too closely the rest of the day!



Garlic Pudding and Spinach Gnudi



In Tuscany, the love affair with pasta is more sublime than the rest of Italy. That’s probably why they came up with a pasta-less, or nude ravioli- “gnudi” (NU-dee). The classic gnudi is a combination of fresh, wilted spinach, ricotta, egg and breadcrumbs and formed into an egg or small disc shape. This is poached and then sautéed in brown butter with truffles and Parmesan. Our garlic pudding (recipe on page 39) will be the star in our gnudi today and we’ll take an unnoticeable shortcut by using thawed, frozen spinach.



3 cups garlic pudding (from recipe on page 39)
3 cups frozen spinach, thawed and pressed of all moisture
2½ cups grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons flour
½ tablespoon salt
¼ tablespoon pepper
4 whole eggs

Bring a pot of water to a boil. While the water heats, place garlic pudding, spinach, Parmesan, salt, pepper and flour in a large bowl. Add whipped eggs and mix. This should have the consistency of loose dough. Pull a tennis ball-sized dollop out and gently roll in flour into a cigar-shaped log measuring a quarter inch in diameter. Using a dough knife, cut into half-inch long pieces then dust with more flour. Each piece should weigh about one ounce. Form each into a football shape making sure they are firm.

Working in batches, load the gnudi into the boiling water with a slotted spoon and boil for three to four minutes or until they float. Remove and set aside to cool.

Uses: These can be held in your walk-in for up to a week and sautéed in butter with truffles or flavored oil. We’ve used them in two other recipes in this article!

Avalanche Garlic Pudding

2 cups roasted garlic cloves from recipe on page 35
2 cups whole milk ricotta cheese
1½ cups grated Parmesan cheese

Put all ingredients into a large, straight sided measuring bucket and blend with an immersion blender or food processor. Blend to make a pudding-like texture. No salt needed.
Uses: Use this pudding with stuffed breads topped with aged white cheddar or in calzones in place of ricotta. Dollop on pizza or as the garlic and spinach gnudi (recipe on page 38).

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio. He is also a speaker at International Pizza Expo and a member of the World Pizza Champions.

By Glenn Cybulski
Photo by Rick Daugherty

According to the National Restaurant Association, the most profitable menu items are soft drinks, followed closely by alcoholic drinks and then pastas and pizza.

The largest pizzeria chains in the world do not sell alcohol, and until just a few years ago they did not even sell pastas. Yet, they still make a lot of money on a limited menu. You might ask yourself: “How does a small operator like me, with one or two stores, maximize my profits?” Well, it is right in front of you. Just open your menu!

Your menu is a main ingredient in the overall recipe of your restaurant’s success. If it is too big, your food cost soars. Too small and your volume may suffer due to lack of variety. So the key to creating “moneymaking menu musts” is using the ingredients that you already have and offering your guest choices that are the most profitable for you.

We all know stale food is not good. Neither are stale menus. Today’s restaurant guests like consistency, but they also crave new options. National brand restaurants make seasonal menu changes that are reflected in their appetizer menu, salads, main courses and desserts … and so can you. It’s easy, fun and can increase your profits every day.

I love making fresh appetizers like onion rings or house-made mozzarella sticks. Take a look at the ingredients necessary to make either of these appetizers and you probably have both in your walk in — mozzarella cheese, onions, flour, baking soda, a few seasonings and beer! Remember, you have no new food ingredients to buy and you are making fresh apps that your guests are going to love. They will increase your profits and set you apart from your competition (which is probably buying items like this pre-made from their distributor). Consider this food cost breakdown:

Onion Rings

• A serving of onion rings is 10 rings.
• Onions are about 24 cents per serving.
• Beer batter costs 25 cents.
• 2 ounces of ranch dressing costs about 20 cents.
• The total food cost is 69 cents.
• Price these house-made beer battered onion rings at $5.95, and you’ll have a gross profit of $5.26.

Mozzarella Sticks

• A six-piece serving of mozzarella sticks is ideal.
• Mozzarella costs about $1.80. u Beer batter equals 25 cents.
• 2 ounces of ranch dressing costs 20 cents.
• The total food cost is $2.25.
• A six-piece order of homemade mozzarella sticks is priced at $6.95. Gross profit? $4.70. And always remember to increase your price point for homemade specials. Your guests will notice the flavor and pay for the quality!

Most pizzerias have pasta on the menu, but does your menu say “house-made pasta special”? It should if you want to make a moneymaking menu! Fresh pasta is easy to make, cooks much faster than dried pastas and tastes much better as well. Once you start making fresh pasta, your menu will explode with exciting new “specials.” And, remember, every time you make a “special” you can increase your profit margins. Here is my easy pasta dough recipe, which yields about six servings of pasta:

4 cups of 00 Flour
4 large eggs
2 tablespoon of water (as needed)

Mix ingredients in a small mixer or by hand until it is the consistency of “Play Dough,” wrap with plastic and let stand about an hour.

Bring salted water to boil and place your pasta in the pot to cook. At the same time, start your sauté of a ½ cup of fresh veggies, 2 ounces of bacon and a pinch of fresh garlic in EVOO. Then add a pinch of salt and pepper. Your fresh pasta will cook in about 3 minutes. Add your pasta to your sauce, toss in a pinch of Parmesan or Pecorino cheese and top with a fresh basil leaf.

The total food cost is just $1.25 with a special menu price of $9.95 — making you a gross profit of $8.70. One of the secrets to creating a menu that consistently delivers high profits is change. Remember to use fresh local vegetables, dairy products and proteins to create specials for your guests. By utilizing the ingredients you already have in your kitchen, this will keep food cost low and make experimenting with new recipes easy.

Now that you have an idea of what your new menu items will be, it’s time to make sure your guests order them. Don’t worry about having to rewrite your menu and spend a bunch of money recreating it. Here are a few ideas to use no matter your restaurant situation:

• Counter service, carryout and delivery. Printing up a quick specials menu is easy and inexpensive. Just list your specials — from apps to desserts — and price accordingly. Whether your guest orders a special right on the spot or takes home the menu, you still have sparked the idea for them to try something new. Get excited about your new menu items and your guests will be excited too.

Send home new special menus with walk-in guests and delivery orders as well and you will see the orders start Wiscon Corp coming with every new call. Run your specials for at least two weeks so your regular guests get a chance to order them. You will be able to track your sales to see what is being ordered the most.

• Dine-in. If you are in the full-service business, then you already know how important it is to train your staff to sell the specials! Make it fun for them and make sure they taste the specials so they can honestly and accurately tell the guest what they are. Wait staff should know your menu inside and out and they should be trained to point out the most profitable menu items, so training is critical.

Glenn Cybulski is executive chef at Persona Neapolitan Pizzeria and a member of the World Pizza Champions. He will present a seminar on this topic at International Pizza Expo this month.

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno Jr.
Photos by Josh Keown

The appetizer section of menus has taken a beating in the many Chicago restaurants I visit every day in my role as chief restaurant critic for the Chicago Sun- Times. I see customers moving away from expensive appetizers (and, believe me, the price of apps have gone through the roof) and moving directly to an entreé (or possibly an inexpensive house salad before the entree). But it doesn’t have to be that way.

Appetizers are not on menus simply to boost the check average. An appetizer, as the name implies, is a small serving of food meant to stimulate the appetite. Antipasto in Italian. Hors d’oeuvre in French. Antojito in Spanish. Anyway you pronounce or spell it, the reason appetizers are the lead item on most menus is that it sets the pace for the rest of the meal. And, to that extent, it becomes your calling card. Serving a bad appetizer or two can throw cold water on everything to follow, and that will leave a bad taste in your customers’ mouths. Step up to the plate and make some magic with the appetizer portion of your menu.

Here, by focusing on zucchini and artichokes, I am only scratching the surface of the pantry of possibilities; however, by extension, you can take some of the ideas and methods included in the recipes that follow and put them to use in other applications. And, by yet another extension, take the accompaniments (dipping sauces, garnishes) I suggest and put those into play with those appetizers that you might be featuring on your menu right now.

Allow me to whet your appetite with this very easy-to-do recipe for fried zucchini. The zucchini is cut lengthwise for this recipe; however, you can use the same method of coating and frying should you want to cut the zucchini into coins instead of strips. It boils down to simply a matter of how you wish to plate and present the dish.



Zucchini Fritti
Yield: about 4 servings (scale up in direct proportion)

1½ cups Parmesan 1½ cups Panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) ½ teaspoon salt 2 extra-large eggs 3 medium-size zucchini, washed, trimmed (but not skinned), cut into 3 inch-long by about ½ inch-wide strips In a mixing bowl, combine the Parmesan, Panko and salt.

In another bowl, whisk the eggs. Dip the zucchini in the egg to coat, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl. Coat the zucchini on both sides with the Panko, pressing so that the Panko sticks.

Deep-fry the zucchini strips (in batches if necessary) until they are golden brown (about 3 minutes at 375 F). Drain on paper toweling. Can be made ahead and held for up to one hour. Serve with aioli dipping sauce on the side (recipe follows).

Aioli Dipping Sauce for Fried Zucchini

A classic aioli is made with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and egg yolks, which by any other name is close to fresh-made mayonnaise. So in my version of aioli I take the easy way out by using bottled mayonnaise with no loss of fl avor or overall goodness.

2 cups real mayonnaise 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3 large garlic cloves, pushed through a garlic press 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (about 1⁄3 cup) Sea salt

Put the mayonnaise in a mixing bowl. Whisk in the lemon juice, garlic and olive oil. Add salt to taste. Refrigerate (covered) for 2 hours to let the fl avors develop.

Makes just over 2 cups. Scale up in direct proportion.

Batter-Fried Artichokes

It’s not easy to work with artichokes but, in the end, deliciousness trumps hard work. Whether to use fresh artichokes and go through the process of paring and trimming the artichoke, or to use canned artichoke hearts or frozen artichokes hearts is up to you (my choice, unless I am stuffi ng the artichoke, is to go with frozen artichoke hearts). Whatever choice you make, give this appetizer a try, you just might be surprised how well your customers take to these golden, crispy, chunks of delicious pleasure. Deep-fried artichokes can be as simple as dredging the hearts (halve the larger hearts to allow for even cooking) in fl our and dropping them in the fryer. Drain and serve with wedges of fresh lemon. Or, to make matters a bit more interesting, you can use this recipe, one that gives the artichokes a tastier, crispier chew.

Crispy Artichoke Hearts

1 pound artichoke hearts. If frozen, thaw. If canned, drain. (Pat dry in both cases) 2 large eggs ¾ cup all-purpose fl our ¼ cup yellow cornmeal 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan 2 teaspoons dried oregano

Cut the larger hearts in half lengthwise. In a small bowl, beat the eggs lightly. In a separate bowl combine the fl our, cornmeal, Parmesan and oregano.

Dip the artichoke halves in the egg, allowing the excess to drain back into the bowl, then into the fl our mixture, turning to coat all over.

Deep-fry in batches (about 4 minutes until golden and crisp) Drain onto paper towels. Serve with a Dijon-dill dipping sauce (recipe follows) on the side. Or, if you want to take the easy (yet delicious) route, use a bottled ranch dressing.

Put the dipping sauce in a small ramekin in the center of a large plate. Arrange the fried artichoke hearts around the ramekin. Sprinkle with fi nely chopped parsley (optional).

It is hard to gauge a serving portion, because of the varying size of the artichoke hearts. I can tell you that when I make this recipe for friends and family the artichokes disappear rather fast. However, the recipe is so simple it doesn’t take long to whip up another batch.

Dijon-Dill Dipping sauce
¼ cup mayonnaise 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon snipped fresh dill 1 teaspoon lemon juice Combine the mayonnaise, mustard and dill. Whisk in the lemon juice. ❖

Pat Bruno is Pizza Today’s resident chef and a regular contributor. He is the former owner and operator of a prominent Italian cooking school in Chicago and is a food critic for the Chicago Sun-Times.

By Denise K. Sypeteyn
Photo by Rick Daugherty

Pizzerias across America have traditionally offered very few creative appetizers on their menus, preferring instead to focus on the pizza itself. In an effort to boost revenues and remain competitive, however, operators say that by offering more appetizers, utilizing ingredients they have on hand, they are able to offer variety without sacrifi cing food cost. Over the last several years, the “chip and dip” concept has emerged. Taking lead from other successful franchise food chains across the country, many operators have introduced the ever-popular spinach artichoke dip to their menus.

So what is it that makes spinach artichoke dip one of America’s most popular appetizers? The “chip and dip” concept is nothing new. Serving dips at parties has been a staple for ages and using breads or tortillas for dipping actually goes back for centuries. Mediterranean countries have always enjoyed dipping crusty breads into extra virgin olive oil. The Swiss dipped little cubes of hearty, dense bread into wine-soaked Swiss cheese and Mexican cultures served fried tortilla chips with salsa, all of which are now common fare in this country.

The standard recipe for spinach artichoke dip combines either fresh or frozen spinach with artichoke hearts, creams and cheeses. There are many variations on the theme, however, which make this hearty dish a universal favorite that requires virtually no marketing.

Natasha O’Hara, owner of Dino’s Pizza in North Mankoto, Minnesota, says this offering is one of her top selling appetizers and offers customers another menu item that can be shared with a group of people. “Most everyone enjoys spending time socially with their friends and family, and this type of food can easily be shared over a good conversation,” she says. “It’s comfort food; it’s the new chips and salsa. We save on cost by serving it on fl atbread made from pizza dough.”

Operators have differing opinions on which ingredients have a better food cost. O’Hara feels that using fresh spinach is more profi table. Others, however, prefer to use frozen chopped spinach, as they feel it is easier and stretches farther without sacrifi cing any fl avor.

Steven Greenberg, owner of Steve’s Wood Fired Pizza in Boca Raton, Florida, says he manages to keep his food cost at 13- to 15-percent using frozen chopped spinach. “We make our recipe from scratch,” says Greenberg. “We add artichoke hearts, olive oil, onions, garlic, sour cream, chicken broth, heavy cream, fl our and a variety of cheeses, and serve it with tri-color tortilla chips. We’ve even used it as a sauce on our pizzas, topping it with slices of roasted chicken.”

Even the simplest recipe can become more interesting by serving it with different chips or breads. Operators are using everything from tortilla chips to toasted pita bread, fl atbread and sourdough bread.

Some operators have decided to forego the spinach altogether, incorporating more herbs and cheesy sauces. “We introduced spinach artichoke dip to our menu three years ago, but we wanted to be more innovative, so we changed it to a Basil Artichoke Dip,” says Ryan Fuller, director of training and development for the Glacier Restaurant Group, which operates the MacKenzie River Pizza Company chain in Whitefi sh, Montana.

“We actually lowered our food cost by adding Alfredo sauce and pesto sauce, along with artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers and fresh basil. We serve it with sourdough dipping wedges. Our customers love it!”

Spinach artichoke dip is also a great appetizer to serve using alternative ingredients such as bacon, crabmeat or sun-dried tomatoes that will jazz up the standard recipe. You can also adjust the caloric intake, as desired. ❖

Denise K. Sypesteyn is an award-winning editor and freelance writer specializing in the food and travel industries. She is also the former owner of a successful pizzeria and Southwestern restaurant in New Orleans, Louisiana

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno Jr.
Photos by Rick Daugherty

Dips definitely have a place on your appetizer or bar menu, so don’t look down on them as being a food that has lost it edge. Those tasteless dips (most made with onion soup and all that) we had been urged into trying at a party might have left a bad taste in our mouth and given dips a bad rap. But I am here to correct all that. The dips I am talking about are those that I like to call “delicious dips for today.” All have a creative edge. These are dips that you just want to, well, keep dipping into –– dips that your customers will rave about.

There are hot and cold versions. Generally speaking, cold dips are easier to deal with than hot dips. Cold dips go together without too much fuss (generally, all it takes is a food processor to complete the recipe) and have a longer shelf life. On the other hand, hot dips come across as being a lot more creative and have a livelier taste profile.

Consider seasonal aspects –– availability of fresh produce and herbs, cold weather, hot weather. I really enjoy hot soups in the winter, but not so much in the summer. And the reverse, cold soups (gazpacho, for example) in the summer. But that’s just me. Dips –– cold or hot –– have no season.

Here is one example of a creative approach to dips. Recently, I was at a wine bar/restaurant in Chicago, where I live. One of the appetizer choices was actually four dips in one. It was called “Taste of the Mediterranean.” Arranged on a small oval platter were an eggplant spread (baba ghanoush), an olive tapenade, hummus, and a cucumber/yogurt spread (tzatziki). A bowl filled with small pita triangles became the carrier or “dipper” to scoop up the various dips and spreads. So you see, a dip doesn’t have to be one dimensional.

On the subject of what can be used to scoop up a dip, you probably already have it in front of you: Pizza dough. Simply roll or stretch your basic pizza dough. Dock it, brush it with olive oil, bake and cut into squares or triangles. Serve your “pizza chips” on the side for your customer to use with your tasty dips.

I would recommend that you dip your toe in the water with a cold dip or two. Then fl ex your idea muscles and try out a hot dip. And don’t forget to work out an attractive presentation, which is very important to give your dip appetizers an up to date, modern feel. Here are a few ideas to get you started.

Italian Bean Dip
I suppose this could fall into the category of that Middle Eastern dip/ spread known as hummus (which is made using chickpeas). In this bean dip version I use cannellini beans. And it all goes together simply and easily. The only variable is the olive oil. Too little olive oil and the dip might come out too dry; too much oil and the dip will be too runny. You want this dip to have enough body to cling to the bread or pizza chip or whatever you are using. Use discretion as you add the olive oil.

Yield: about 5 cups of dip (scale up in direct proportion)

4 cups cannellini beans, rinsed, drained
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
¼ cup fl at-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon (or to taste) crushed red pepper flakes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil (about)

In the work bowl of a food processor, combine the beans, garlic, lemon juice, parsley and red pepper flakes. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil until the dip is creamy, not runny. The flavor profile of this dip is at least two hours. Serve with triangles of toasted bread or pizza chips.

Roasted Red Pepper Dip
If you are using canned or jarred roasted red peppers, be sure to pat as much moisture off the peppers as possible or the dip will be too watery.

Yield: about 3 cups (scale up in direct proportion)

2 cups roasted red peppers (from jar or can or roast your own), patted dry
1 cup ricotta cheese
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the peppers, ricotta and Parmesan. Process until a smooth and creamy purée is formed. Add salt and pepper. Serve with toasted Italian bread or pizza chips.

Pizza Fondue Dip
The idea with this dip –– which as the name implies is a hot dip –– is to use what you already have on your prep table. Serve the fondue part in some type of attractive heatproof bowl (metal or porcelain). Put the bowl on a large plate; put the dipping bread around the perimeter of the plate. The purpose of the mozzarella is not only to add flavor interest, but body and texture to enhance the dipping process.

Yield: about 5 cups of dip (scale up in direct proportion)

½ pound cooked lean ground pork or sausage meat
1 clove garlic, crushed
3 cups pizza sauce or tomatoes (whatever you are using for your pizzas)
1 teaspoon each dried oregano and basil
2 teaspoons crushed or ground fennel seeds
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup shredded mozzarella

In a large pot, set over medium high heat, combine the pork, garlic, pizza sauce, oregano, basil and fennel seeds. Stir to combine. When the sauce has reached a simmer (not boiling), swirl in the Parmesan. Wait a few minutes then stir in the mozzarella if you are using this portion size right away. Alternately, to complete the serving process: Keep the dip warm in a water bath or steam table. Hold back the mozzarella and add it to order, just before ladling out a portion relative to number of people to be served.

Pat Bruno is Pizza Today’s resident chef and a regular contributor. He is the former owner and operator of a prominent Italian cooking school in Chicago and is a food critic for the Chicago Sun-Times.

By Linda Formichelli
Photos by Josh Keown

Appetizers come first in the meal, but do they come last on your priority list? They shouldn’t, because if you put as much attention into your starters as you do your main dishes, your bottom line can benefit. “Appetizers are an opportunity for us operators to potentially increase the check average per person,” says Don Bellis, CEO and co-founder of The Rock Wood Fired Pizza chain in Washington. Scott Anthony, a pizza industry marketing expert and owner of Fox’s Pizza Den in Punxatawney, Pennsylvania, adds that the profi t margin on appetizers is usually a little more than that on pizza, making them even more attractive to savvy operators.

Appetizers are more than deep-fried (or woodfire baked) money-makers — they can also serve as a way to test out products for the main menu, and they help create a positive experience for diners who are looking to treat themselves. Want to get started with starters, or revamp your appetizer selection? We asked pizza restaurant owners who are doing it right to share their tips.

How many appetizers should you offer? The answer is whatever works for you: The Rock Wood Fired Pizza has 10 on the menu; Panhandler Pizza in New Braunfels, Texas, has four; and Villa Fresh Italian Kitchen restaurants, which are in several states, have five. Villa Enterprises’ director of marketing, John Drinkard, says: “We like to have 18 percent of our entire menu mix be appetizers. It’s a little bit industry standard, and a little bit of us knowing our concepts and our customers.” For the operators we interviewed, the number of appetizers fluctuates, with some new starters being introduced and less popular ones dropping off the menu. “If it’s less than three percent of your sales, get rid of it unless it’s something that’s really versatile that’s going to be in other menu items,” advises Anthony.

Appetizers range from expected stand-bys (think mozzarella sticks) to unique taste sensations (think calamari). According to Anthony, there are some basic appetizers that customers at most pizzerias simply expect, such as garlic bread or breadsticks, French fries and cheesesticks. “Beyond that, you want to have things that customers are looking for, and this has to be balanced with how much dine-in you really have,” he adds.

Take into consideration your restaurant’s “food personality” when drawing up an appetizer menu; for example, because The Rock Wood Fired Pizza is a full-service restaurant that offers burgers, chicken, and other dishes as well as pizza, the appetizer menu is varied: Cajun popcorn shrimp, French fries and cheese fries, garlic-mozzarella bread, chipotle wings and mini-calzones. And Bellis likes to give dishes a unique spin, so The Rock’s wings are cast-iron baked as opposed to deep fried, and diners can get the garlic mozzarella bread with brown sugar sprinkled on it for what Bellis calls “a maple sugar-like sweetness.” As another example, an upscale pizzeria might skip the mozzarella sticks and instead serve up two other popular starters: calamari and toasted ravioli.

You can get double duty out of your appetizers if you choose ingredients that you already use in other dishes. For example, “If you’re going to have kids’ meals, then chicken tenders and mozzarella sticks would be excellent appetizers to add to your menu because those are really big for kids’ meals,” says Anthony. Steve Swindell, co-owner of Panhandler Pizza, agrees. “We’ve attempted to limit our appetizers to products that are using the same product mix (as in main dishes), meaning still using pizza dough, and still using products that go on our normal pizzas,” he says. For example, his restaurant offers garlic cheese sticks that are made from a pizza dough round topped with garlic butter and mozzarella cheese –– all ingredients used in main-dish pizzas –– and cut into strips. Serving double-duty appetizers is about more than stretching ingredients you already use –– it’s also smart because if your customers love what’s on the main menu, they’re likely to love appetizers made out of those same foods as well.

It makes more sense to get crazy with an appetizer than to try mad scientist experiments with more costly main dishes. “The appetizer venue allows us the opportunity to literally try products,” says Swindell. “It’s almost like our research and development department.” For example, Swindell noticed that many diners dip their pizza in ranch dressing, so he’s rolling out an appetizer pizza that has ranch instead of marinara sauce — with a container of marinara on the side for dipping. If the concoction is a hit, Swindell can add it to the menu as a regular pizza.

In the end, keep in mind that when people dine out, they don’t just want food. They want a total experience, including things they can’t (or don’t want to) whip up in their own kitchens. Appetizers help to create that experience. Offer a delectable selection of starters that matches your restaurant’s personality and your customers’ wants, and watch your check average rise. ❖

Make it a meal deal

Many pizza restaurant operators have noticed that in today’s mushy economy, diners are trying to cut costs by deep-sixing appetizers. To combat this trend, John Drinkard, director of marketing for Villa Enterprises Management, suggests putting together combo platters that give the diner a good deal. “We’ve been doing a decent amount of them and getting a nice reaction because two or three people can jump in on them,” he says. “They might get a nine-dollar sampler split between three people, so it’s only three bucks. It’s not like it was a year or two ago, when nobody had any issue with getting a six-dollar appetizer.”

Linda Formichelli is a freelance writer living in Concord, New Hampshire. She covers a wide variety of topics and has authored several books.

By Katie Ayoub
Photos by Rick Daugherty & Josh Keown

Cheese bread is an unfussy name for a pretty straightforward appetizer, and it seems diners like it that way. It does have fancier offshoots — from housemade French bread stuffed with Gruyère to pretzel bread twisted with fontina cheese. Different cultures lay claim to the cheese bread, making it their own with local ingredients and infl uences. In Brazil, pão de queijo (bread of cheese) is made with manioc fl our and queijo de Minas (similar to a queso fresco). In the Republic of Georgia in Eastern Europe, kachapuri is made with fl our, butter, yeast, eggs and yogurt, and stars a creamy salted cow’s milk cheese that is best described as a blend between havarti and mozzarella. Italy’s small town of Recco in Genoa gives us foccacia di Recco, two layers of very thin dough sandwiching a rich, creamy fresh cheese called crescenza. In the U.S., cheese bread is most often bread spread with butter or olive oil, sometimes infused with garlic and herbs, and then topped with cheese or a blend of cheeses. Turning cheese bread into a signature appetizer comes in through technique and choice of cheeses. Operators we spoke to say that a simple cheese bread, executed well, makes their customers happiest, and menu distinction is achieved through recipes that call for more than the expected mozzarella melted over a slice of bread.

Lou Malnati’s, with 30 units in the Chicagoland area, serves a Three-Cheese Bread with a dipping sauce of housemade marinara for $5.25. “It’s a family-sized portion, so it’s a great communal appetizer,” says Jim Freeland, corporate chef and principal at Malnati’s. He starts with French bread infused with proprietary spices. He cuts the bread, then spreads garlic, along with a blend of several different fats, over the bread. It’s topped with mozzarella, Parmesan and cheddar and bakes in the oven until the bread crisps and the cheeses melt. “It is a pretty simple dish, but it’s important to do it well,” he says. “We use really soft French bread, and it crisps up beautifully in the oven. We get a nice contrast of flavors with the three cheeses, so you have several things happening on your palate. It’s really popular because it’s good. It’s not just mozzarella melted on a piece of bread,” he says.

At Palio’s Pizza Café in Mansfield and Ft. Worth, Texas (with other units throughout Texas owned by different franchisees), they make both a cheese bread and a Greek bread, offering them in two portion sizes. For the cheese bread, they start with a hoagie roll, cut it in half and slather it with housemade garlic butter. That gets topped with mozzarella and then toasted. Once pulled out of the oven, it gets finished with Parmesan cheese and parsley. A small order is six slices, and runs at $3.99. The Greek bread sees the hoagie roll slathered with pesto, then topped with mozzarella, feta and tomato, as well as a bit of olive oil. It sells for $4.99. “The Cheese Bread is more popular, but the Greek one does well, too,” says Seth Johnston, manager. “I think it’s at an easier price point for people, plus it’s familiar. We add our own touch to it with the Parmesan and parsley.”

At C.R. Gibbs in Redding, California, the Garlic-Asiago Cheesebread sees mayo in the cheese mix. By adding mayonnaise to the recipe, the chef brings in a binding element and is reduces the cost of the cheese. Mayo also cuts the strong flavor of the Asiago, mellowing it out with its neutral tone. To make it, the chef combines grated Asiago, mayonnaise, chopped garlic and chopped green onion. He blends them, then chills the mixture so it sets. He then spreads it on cut sourdough sticks and broils them in the Salamander until the cheese melts. The appetizer is served with a marinara dipping sauce. “The bread actually stays relatively moist because of the mayo. We don’t need to add butter or oil to the bread first,” says Jennifer Baird, a line cook at C.R. Gibbs. “The mayo also helps us manage the cost of the cheese. The trick is to cover all of the bread with the cheese blend, so you don’t get any burned parts.” The Garlic-Asiago Cheesebread, at $2.99 an order, is second only in appetizer sales to the fried calamari.

Cheesy Garlic Bread

1 large loaf French bread
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 tablespoons butter, softened
¼ cup of grated mozzarella cheese
1/8 cup of grated Parmesan cheese
1/8 cup fontina
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried parsley
Marinara sauce for dipping

Cut the loaf of bread in half, lengthways. Mix the garlic with the softened butter; spread the mixture over each half. Sprinkle mozzarella generously over both halves. Top with Parmesan and fontina cheeses. Combine herbs; sprinkle them over the bread. Place bread on ungreased baking sheet; bake in 375 F oven until bread is golden brown and cheese is bubbling and melted (about 10-15 minutes). Serve with a side of marinara sauce for dipping.

Katie Ayoub is a frequent contributor to Pizza Today. She lives in Toronto, Ontario.

BY NORA CALEY
PHOTOS BY JOSH KEOWN

When San Ramon, California-based Straw Hat Pizza wanted to increase appetizer sales, they turned on the TVs. The 61-unit company partnered with Coca-Cola and created a three-minute video showcasing the chain’s Snack-A-Tizers and Coca-Cola products. Store owners bought television sets that they placed on the order counters, and customers watched the Snack-A-Tizer loop –– which, thankfully for the cashiers, had no sound –– as they waited to place their order.

The chain tested the video in stores in Northern and Southern California. The results were encouraging. “We had a 23- to 30-percent increase in appetizer sales,” says Jonathan Fornaci, president of Straw Hat Pizza. “We had one store near Monterey where the store owner’s TV broke, and within a week his Snack-A-Tizer sales dropped.” He adds that the store owners’ investments paid off within the first month of buying the TVs and DVD players.

Fornaci says the test indicated that customers want to see more visual presentations of the foods, so the chain is installing digital menu boards in some locations. Digital menu boards show pictures, video, moving text and other features. “You want to make the customer feel more comfortable. The digital menu board shows the picture, and the customer says, ‘I want that,’ ” he says. Store managers can even change the text to Spanish to reflect the demographics of a store.

Other restaurants that want to upsell appetizers use a more low-tech approach. Usually that means training cashiers or servers to mention appetizers in a way that doesn’t seem pushy.

“We tell the cashiers we want to offer the missing item,” says Amir Sabetian, vice president of operations for the 96-unit zpizza, based in Irvine, California. “Say they come in and order a pizza, the beverage is the main missing item, so we offer a beverage. Then we go for salad, because salads create a bigger check average than starters. Then we offer starters.” 

Sabetian says appetizers and desserts are impulse buys, especially with Internet orders. “We notice if people order online the check average is higher,” he says. “They see everything in photos, and they get to take their time. Sometimes customers ordering for two people end up with enough food for four.”

David Poth, senior vice president of marketing and research and development for Mazzio’s Italian Eatery, says the company trains call center staff to offer a Dippin’ Starter, or appetizer with a sauce, early in the ordering process. “They start with a pleasant greeting, ‘Would you like to start this evening’s order with an order of cheese dippers?’ It’s non threatening. We are asking a question.” The call center handles the delivery and carryout for about 75 of the chain’s 167 locations.

Two years ago the Tulsa, Oklahoma-based chain launched a promotion called Go 4 It. Call center staff and counter staff at the restaurants tell customers they can add a starter for $4, which is a discount of about $1 to $1.50. “Four dollars is a safe price point,” Poth says. “At four bucks that obstacle to purchase is pretty low, so we might get them to take a chance.”

Every two to three months, Mazzio’s changes which starter to offer at that price. Sometimes the chain uses table tents at the counter, to show photos of the appetizers. Poth says the table tents help future sales. “It doesn’t help us for that visit but it plants a seed. People say, ‘Oh I didn’t know they had toasted ravioli.’ ”           

Call center staff can earn prizes for meeting certain appetizer sales goals. Poth says the prizes often include gas cards, iTunes, and gift cards. Call center managers get a budget, and they buy prizes they think will be valuable and motivating. “They are empowered because they’ve got input, and that seems to work,” Poth says.

At Giovanni’s Pizza, with one location in Huntington, West Virginia, owner Tony Mancini says customers tend to eat appetizers at the bar, while watching local Marshall University football games on TV. “When people spend four or five hours there, they don’t want to eat a big bowl of pasta and then throw down beers. Instead they get a spinach dip they can share with their buddies,” he says.

The trick is to get dining customers to order appetizers in addition to their meals. Mancini says Giovanni’s offers specials, and he incentivizes staff with prizes. He offers gift cards for a non-competing restaurant to the person who sells, for example, the most chicken tenders on a weeknight. “Most of my servers are college kids. You can motivate them with free food,” he says.

He instructs servers to ask customers not whether they want an appetizer, but which appetizer they want. “Make the decision for the customers,” he says. “Plant it in their head with, ‘Do you want to start with a spinach dip?’ ”

Sabetian says staffers don’t have to sell an appetizer to every customer. On busy Friday nights, for example, sometimes it’s better to wrap up orders quickly than to try to get a person to order an appetizer while others are waiting to place an order. “If there are ten people in line, I’d rather take another customer and another $25 check than a $4 starter,” he says. “When it’s slow, the cashier can offer more things and have a conversation with customers.”

Nora Caley is a freelance writer specializing in food and business topics. She lives in Denver, Colorado.

By Jeffrey Freehof
Photo by Josh Keown

Cheese-filled ravioli is an Italian staple that we’ve seen on menus for decades. Over the last several years we’ve seen these delightful stuffed pasta pillows get a delectable makeover. As we culinary folks have come to look at stretched pizza dough as an empty canvas where almost anything goes, we have realized the same is true when it comes to stuffing our ravioli. Meats, vegetables, a wide variety of cheeses or any combination of them all is what is thrusting ravioli into the culinary spotlight. Besides amazing fillings, chefs around the globe are creating wonderfully flavored dough as well to use as the outer pasta layer.

A traditional pasta dough is made with 100-percent durum semolina, which is the hardest part of the wheat. When I make ravioli, I usually use the semolina, but on occasion I have simply used flour and eggs, making my dough soft enough to go through the roller but stiff enough that it isn’t too sticky. I love using a food processor to blend my dough quickly. I also have moved from my counter top hand crank unit with the attachable motor to my pasta attachment that provides an awesome strong motor that allows me to zip through rolling out my dough so much faster.

Now, once you’ve decided what kind of dough you’ll make and you’ve chosen your filling, you’ve got so many different ways to
assemble the ravioli. If you’re using a dough roller of some sort, you’ll have a nice even sheet of pasta, which of course is a plus. There are ravioli trays you can use by placing the bottom sheet of dough on them and then spooning your filling over the spots with indentations on them (which are for the filling). You can make the ravioli in the exact same way without using the tray by simply laying the sheet out on your workbench. Now remember some important tips: you must brush some egg wash on the inside of one of the layers of pasta (top or bottom), but not both. The egg wash will act as the glue. Once you placed your filling on the dough and one of the sheets of pasta is egg washed, place the top layer over the bottom layer with the filling. The other important tip is to ensure that there are no air bubbles trapped inside the ravioli. This will almost guarantee the ravioli ripping and letting the filling seep out during the cooking process.

If you’re using a ravioli tray, you’ll roll over the tray with a rolling pin, which will cut and separate the ravioli. If you are not using a tray, simply use a knife or a pizza cutter to cut and separate the ravioli.

I went to a nice restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island, several years ago and ordered the Raviolo, which is a huge jumbo-stuffed ravioli. There were four to my dinner portion, but there was plenty to eat because they were so huge. The chef simply took some four-inch by four-inch pasta squares, egg washed two of the edges, filled the center with a chicken and spinach mixture and folded them into a triangle. This seemed to be an easier process and less time consuming, but I can assure you they did not fall short in the satisfactory department!

Another secret to successful ravioli cooking is to really chill your ravioli well. If the filling is still warm or too soft, the ravioli will tear during cooking and you will lose some of your hard work.

Now that we’ve got some techniques down in regards to the dough and assembly process, let’s talk fillings. You can keep ravioli simple with a ricotta filling, or you can blend many different cheeses together. I have used a six-cheese blend of ricotta, Romano, Parmesan, Asiago, mozzarella and provolone. I love using spinach in ravioli. A smooth Gorgonzola or goat cheese gives a nice touch to ravioli — but you must be aware of how you are blending your fillings. If you use something with strong flavors, like a Gorgonzola or bleu cheese, you really shouldn’t use them straight. Cut them with something smoother and milder like a ricotta, farmer’s cheese or even a mascarpone.

Also, if you’re using proteins or large vegetables in your filling, make sure they are chopped well without any sharp edges that could potentially rip the ravioli. Here’s a list of ingredients that will make awesome ravioli filling:

crab meat
lobster
shrimp
chicken
sausage
sun-dried tomatoes
spinach
portabella mushrooms
ground veal
braised beef
pumpkin
butternut squash

Once you figure out what kind of ravioli filling you want to make, you have the next culinary task of deciding what sauce will best
accompany your pasta. Keep in mind there may be many different sauces that could be a great fit. For example, I love to make a nutmeg and cinnamon cream sauce to accompany my butternut squash ravioli. But an awesome brown sage butter is also amazing with it. Marinara would be a great sauce with a chicken, spinach and cheese ravioli, but so would a creamy pesto sauce or a roasted red pepper and garlic Gorgonzola butter.

As you can see, the possibilities are really endless. u

Jeff Freehof owns The Garlic Clove in Evans, Georgia. He is a frequent contributor to Pizza Today and a speaker at International Pizza Expo.

Bruschetta (broo-SKEH-tah) has emerged as a very popular appetizer (running a close second to fried calamari). In the Italian repertoire of appetizers, offering bruschetta makes a lot of sense. It’s easy to prepare, it holds well (meaning it can be prepped well ahead) and it can be offered at an attractive price. The food costs are low, and that helps balance out the average food costs over, say, appetizers as a category.

The simplest definition of bruschetta is that it is toasted bread topped with one thing or another. To elaborate, bruschetta is a slice (oval or round) of toasted bread that is rubbed with a clove of garlic followed by a drizzle of olive oil, followed by whatever topping (much like pizza) that enhances its ability to sell. In the Tuscan region, bruschetta often shows up using its alias, fettunta, and is a way to salvage bread that is a day or two old or on the road to going stale. The Spanish version of bruschetta is called pan con tomate (bread rubbed with tomato). When I was doing pizza-consulting work in Spain, I cannot recall any restaurant (or tapas bar) that did not offer some version of pan con tomate.

Bruschetta is not a menu offering that you have to over think. For example, you can use whatever bread you have on hand (fresh or day old). What you top that slice of bread with is limited only to how deep into the creative well you wish to go. Common sense must prevail, however. Obviously, topping a slice of bread with costly ingredients will ramp up the menu price, and the average customer does not expect to shell out a lot of bucks for a rustic appetizer. So keep it simple, but keep it good.

Let’s start with a slice of bread –– size and shape to be determined. Then we take a look at what might work as a topping for that piece of bread. Other considerations include the toasting of the bread. Not too little, not too much. Work it so that the customer is able to pick up the slice easily and take a bite or two. Or allow for an easy cut using a sharp knife.

Garlic adds an important dimension of flavor to a bruschetta, so toasting or grilling the bread to create a coarse surface allows using the bread as a grater. As you rub the garlic clove over the bread, note the amount of garlic (it might be more than you bargained for).

Here are some topping combinations that I have used in the past with great success. If you want to put a name to each one to enhance customer appeal by all means, do so. For example the first one could be called “Caprese.”

Note: In each version below, assume the toasting or grilling of the bread and a fresh garlic rub. Add EVOO where it makes sense (over the bread or over the toppings). Top each slice of bread with:

slices of fresh Roma tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, a chiffonade of fresh basil and a sprinkle of grated Parmesan;
smear of pesto sauce, strips or roasted red peppers, a sprinkle of Parmesan and a few leaves of fresh basil (optional);
slices with crushed (actually crushed into a paste) of cannellini beans, crushed red pepper flakes, grated Parmesan and dried oregano;
a smear of ricotta, thinly sliced Roma tomatoes, grated Parmesan;
a “relish” made of chopped fresh tomatoes, red onion, olives, capers and EVOO;
a mixture of finely chopped romaine lettuce, shingles of Parmesan, fillets of anchovies and EVOO (obviously, I would call this a “Caesar Bruschetta”).

 

You can add even more interest by shaking up the cheeses. For example, crumbled Gorgonzola with roasted plum tomatoes would be an excellent idea. Use crumbled feta with pitted and chopped Kalamata olives and tomatoes to do a Greek version of bruschetta.

If you wish to do a “grilled cheese” version of bruschetta, sprinkle shredded mozzarella (or a combination of cheeses) over the toasted and garlic-rubbed bread slices. Slide it under the broiler to melt the cheese. Serve at once.

Pat Bruno is Pizza Today’s resident chef and a regular contributor. He is the former owner and operator of a prominent Italian cooking school in Chicago and is a former food critic for the Chicago Sun-Times.

By Jeffrey Freehof
Photos By Josh Keown

Breadsticks equal big profits for pizzerias. They are cheap to produce with an almost endless supply of ingredients and are a perfect appetizer add-on to just about any menu item. Take it up a notch by stuffing them and really see them fly out the door. What can they be stuffed with? Just about every pizza topping you have in your kitchen!

I remember one of the best piz- zeria television ads I’ve ever seen that stuck with me all these years. It was a Little Caesars ad back in the ’90s. I’ll set the scene: There’s a 5-year-old little boy wearing his X-ray vision glasses, attempting to see through things. Now enters the scene a voluptuous woman with a
bag of pepperoni stuffed breadsticks clutched to her bosom. We see the little boy stop in his tracks, looking toward her chest with his X-ray glasses, and of course, our imagination brings us to all the wrong places until he utters these words: “Wow, you got a lot of pepperoni in your bread.” They sold tons!

Let’s get started with the basic bread- stick and progress from there. One of the easiest ways I made basic breadsticks in my pizzerias was to lightly flour a 12-ounce dough ball and pat it out, but not all the way as if I were making a pizza. I’d stretch it as close to a rectangle as I could. Using a pizza cutter, I cut the rectangle shaped dough into about 12 strips. I’d then place them on a pizza pan or screen leaving a little space between them, as they will rise slightly. They are ready to bake. If you have a conveyor, you want to start them in the middle of the oven. you want to make sure you have melted butter or liquid margarine (which most restaurants use), ready with a pastry brush so you can brush them as soon as they come out of the oven. They should only take a few minutes to bake.
Go ahead and brush them generously with the butter or margarine and then sprinkle them with a topping. Parmesan is a great start. adding some garlic and parsley really enhances them, creating a Parmesan garlic breadstick appetizer that’s hard to resist. Consider a powdered ranch sprinkle or even a cinnamon sugar sprinkle creating more of a dessert breadstick.

If you offer a variety of sprinklings for your breadsticks, you may want to have a separate container of the butter and separate brush for the cinnamon sugar breadsticks only because some how the garlic and Parmesan always seem to find their way into the butter blend. adding a cinnamon sugar sprinkle to a buttered bread- stick that has a little garlic in it would be a culinary clash that would be less than pleasant to any palate. I love garlic and cinnamon, but together? Not so good.

If you have mastered the basic bread- sticks, it’s time to go a little wild. There’s a couple of different ways to make stuffed breadsticks. The easiest way is to actually make a separate batch of dough adding different ingredients to the dough and then simply portioning the dough out into the same 12 ounce balls and preparing the breadsticks in the same manner that I have explained. years ago I was at a community event where there would be tasting of different restaurant food, with attendees voting for their favorite. I was so excited to win best bread against large chain Panera Bread. I called it Tuscan bread and these can perfectly be made into breadsticks.

Take a smaller batch of your pizza dough and mix into it some sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil or a little pesto, some chopped garlic, chopped Kalamata olives and some Parmesan. (I think Feta would a perfect cheese alternative to the Parmesan.)
These are amazing by themselves, but would be great with a little olive oil blend with some roasted garlic cloves in it. Marinara would be another great sauce to dip these Tuscan breadsticks in. so you have the concept of mixing ingredients into your dough. Look at all of your pizza toppings and use them as your options for either mixing them into your dough or actually stuffing into the breadstick. some great options for either technique are:

• Sausage and peppers
• Sausage and pepperoni
• Pepperoni and black olive
• Spinach, pepperoni & black olive
• Vegetarian with mushrooms, peppers & onions
• Broccoli, ham & cheese
• Cordon Bleu with chicken, ham and swiss
• Steak & cheese breadsticks

When creating stuffed breadsticks, roll the dough out into a very long and nar- row strip about 6 inches wide as though it were a long and skinny calzone. evenly place your minimum amount of fillings in the middle of the dough. Fold the dough from the bottom to the top creating a long, skinny stuffed breadstick. With a pizza cutter or bench scraper, cut it into 6 to 8 sticks and bake them in your pizza oven for 3 to 4 minutes. Brush and sprinkle them in the same way and serve them with Marinara, Pesto, ranch dressing or buffalo dipping sauce.

The combinations can probably go on forever. That’s where you come in. Just be careful when actually mixing your fillings in with the dough. you want to chop or dice your fillings fairly small and don’t over mix the dough; otherwise, you won’t be able to identify the fillings. also don’t put too much soft meltable cheese as it will make a mess when baking. Parmesan and Feta are great choices for this technique.

Jeff Freehof owns The garlic Clove in Evans, Georgia. he is a frequent contributor to Pizza Today and a speaker at the Pizza expo family of trade shows.

By Jeffrey Freehof
Photo by Josh Keown

It’s true that chickens can’t really fly, but their wings have been flying out the doors of pizzerias for a couple of decades now increasing in popularity year after year. We’ve seen the emergence of restaurants dedicated to wings like Wild Wings, Buffalo Wild Wings, Wing Stop, Wing Street and so many more. Going back 40 years, when I was a little boy in California, my dad would take my brothers and I out for a special night and we’d get chicken wings. I remember we could order them about a half dozen different ways. Today’s customers have even more options. We see gas prices rise during heavy holiday traveling time because of the demand. It’s the same way with chicken wings and the Super Bowl. Although other great foods have become part of our spread, wings remain a main attraction of our party feast!

There are different ways to buy and cook your wings. You can purchase wings either raw or cooked. You’ll find wings whole with the wing tip on or cut with the tips removed, which is my preference. Getting your wings raw is pretty basic. You have a choice in size and you can get them fresh or frozen. Then you need to decide whether you want to marinate them or just toss them in seasoning and a light breading before you fry them. When I was 16 as a fry cook in a Chinese restaurant, they marinated the wings for 24 hours and would drain them very well and then give them their first fry (no coating). This would fully cook the wings and we would then refrigerate them, but they’d still be pretty white in color. To order, we would fry them again fairly quickly and they’d get a nice crispness to them. Baking the wings is a good alternative to the first fry.

When considering purchasing cooked wings instead of raw, the variety is nearly endless and can be a bit overwhelming. When I bought my pizzerias in 1998, the original owner didn’t have any fryers but still sold a lot of oven-able wings. He bought three different varieties –– mild buffalo, spicy buffalo and teriyaki. I immediately switched to buying plain but mildly seasoned cooked wings, and when they came out of the oven we would then toss them in the same flavor choices we offered before and we added BBQ sauce as well. By doing this, we brought our inventory down to just one type of wing and were able to increase our offerings. You can toss your wings in wet marinades or sauces and can even use some dry rub style seasonings like lemon pepper or ranch seasoning. I’m always looking for great new ideas in the culinary world, especially new flavors to toss wings in, so I pay attention when I’m going out to eat –– especially when I travel –– so I can see the great innovation of other chefs.

Of course I love garlic –– after all, I named my restaurant the Garlic Clove. I was so delighted to find the best chicken wings I’ve ever had (next to my favorite sticky Chinese chicken wings) when I traveled to the Del Ray Beach Garlic Festival a year ago. Although the festival was great, I heard from someone at the festival about a restaurant around the corner called Bru’s Room Sports Grill who had on their menu grilled “Triple Threat Wings.” If you ever get to Del Ray Beach, you’ve got to try them, but if you don’t, no worries. As a chef of many years, I have learned to dissect flavors and reassemble them in my kitchen duplicating what I’ve tasted. They seem to blend their buffalo, BBQ and teriyaki sauce equally, throw in a hearty teaspoon of freshly chopped garlic and then toss in the wings. The flavor combination is just amazing, but if you’re on a date, just make sure you both have them or have some mints on hand! Just know they are worth it. It also affirms what I’ve shared with you over the years about mixing ingredients you already have to create something brand new.

You should determine what type of wings to purchase based on the size of your operation, especially when it comes to your refrigeration. Uncooked wings should always be less expensive, but handling raw poultry is one of the most critical ingredients you carry and must be stored under refrigeration at the lowest possible level (off the floor of course). Having to cook wings from a raw state can also pose problems, such as serving undercooked wings (very dangerous). Also, the possibility of over cooking them renders them undesirable.

Great, pre-cooked, lightly seasoned wings are a little more expensive. But, in the long run, they should be easier to handle and process. Offer glazes and coatings like Mild Buffalo, Spicy, Teriyaki, lemon pepper, ranch, BBQ, Honey Chipotle BBQ, Sweet and Spicy Chili glaze. Be innovative. Come up with some of your own unique flavors and make it happen. One more tip I want to share is that not everyone wants to mess with bones, so use some awesome fried tenders and glaze them in the same way to make a great alternative. Many places call them boneless wings. The opportunities are endless.

Jerk Chicken Wings

24 chicken wings, wing tips cut off, halved at the joint
½ cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic
½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ cup minced jalapeño peppers
1 teaspoon black pepper
8 drops hot sauce
3 tablespoons soy sauce
½ cup vegetable oil

In a food processor, combine all of the ingredients except the chicken. Pulse to puree and liquefy.

Arrange the chicken wings in a single layer in a baking pan. Pour the marinade over the chicken. Let marinate, covered and chilled, for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Place the wings in one layer in a roasting pan. Spoon some of the marinade over the wings. Bake in a preheated 450 F oven for about 30 minutes, or until cooked through. Serve with celery sticks and trimmed whole scallions.

Jeff Freehof owns The Garlic Clove in Evans, Georgia. He is a frequent contributor to Pizza Today and a speaker at the Pizza Expo family of trade shows.

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno Jr.

One of the features of a menu in many Italian restaurants is the antipasto platter. In one form or another, and with any number of ingredients, it has a lot of appeal, and it is especially inviting for family dining when everybody gets to take part in the fun. Without too much trouble you can make a very strong impression on your customers by putting together the Ultimate Antipasto Platter. Your customers will remember you for it, and they will talk about it.
The word “antipasto” translates as “before the pasta,” (as in ‘before the pasta course’). In the scheme of Italian eating, it goes like this: antipasto, pasta, secondi (or entreé), contorno (side dish) and dolce (dessert). Considering that arrangement, the idea of the antipasto becomes important, and the antipasto platter sets the tone for what some Italians might call “an important meal.”

An antipasto platter can take on many different forms, not only in the foods that are presented, but also the plate or platter on which the food is arranged. The latest trend that I have noticed in Chicago is that antipasto platters are leaning more into salumi (cured meats), along with a short menu of asaggio (little plates). For example, the cured meats include salami, mortadella, finnochiona (pork sausage with fennel), Prosciutto, capacollo, even speck (cured ham), and bresaola (air-cured beef). The asaggio might include marinated olives (several different types), giardiniera, roasted vegetables (fennel, carrots, celery root salad,), bell peppers, pepperonata.

Now we take a look at the role cheeses play in an antipasto (the plural is antipasti). There are so many possibilities here, including Gorgonzola, Parmigiano, Pecorino, provolone, Asiago, Fontina, fresh mozzarella.
Another part of the antipasto collection has to do with spuntini. This word translates to “snack.” Under spuntini we might find dishes like caponata, roasted peppers, calamari salad, artichokes, and anchovies. Along with all the possibilities mentioned above, important flavor additions and dressings can and should also be used. Some excellent choices are extra-virgin olive oil, herbs, capers, garlic and balsamic vinegar.
If we take some of this and some of that from each of the food groups I’ve mentioned, we can put together an impressive array of foods that include great tastes, impressive textures and a colorful assortment. The recipe that follows is just a sample. Use your creativity to put together your signature antipasto platter.


Ultimate Antipasto Platter
Serves 4-6 (scale up in direct proportion)

½ pound sliced Genoa salami
½ pound sliced mortadella
1/4 pound sliced prosciutto
1/4 pound sliced capacollo
1 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced
1 pound provolone, Asiago or fontina (or assortment), cubed
2 cups large black and green olives
2 cup giardiniera, drained
1 cups grilled or roasted artichoke hearts, dressed with olive oil and oregano
2 cups roasted red peppers, drained and slivered, tossed with garlic and olive oil
Use a large oval platter to hold all of the ingredients. Starting from the outside of the platter, arrange and overlap the meats and group them according to type.
In the next row, completely around the platter, arrange the fresh mozzarella and the cubed cheeses. Next to the cheeses arrange the olives, followed by the giardiniera. Next row would be the artichokes and the roasted peppers.
Buon Appetito!

By Pasquale “Pat” Bruno Jr.

Bruschetta and Crostini are essentially in the same family of Italian appetizers, yet each has its own distinct personality. Add one or the other to your antipasti menu (if you add both it might confuse your customer). Generally speaking, if you are more into Italian fine dining, crostini would be more appropriate. For Italian casual menus, bruschetta is the way to go.
The classic bruschetta (broo-SKEH-tah) preparation is this: Toast or grill thick slices of Italian bread. While the bread is still warm, rub the surface of the bread with a peeled clove of garlic and then dress it lightly with extra-virgin olive oil and some freshly ground pepper (this is the original garlic bread). Properly speaking, this is called fettunta, or bread with olive oil.
A more Americanized version of bruschetta is the addition of chopped fresh tomatoes and torn leaves of fresh basil. To my way of eating, the Americanized version of bruschetta is a lot tastier than the Italian version. More elaborate versions of bruschetta include the addition of chopped olives, capers, a dusting of Parmesan cheese, or even pieces of cured sausage.
The bread for bruschetta should be firm and crusty around the edges, while the middle should be chewy and have a texture that is soft enough to hold up to the grilling or toasting — yet allow for the oil and juices (from, say, the fresh tomatoes) to get soaked up.
Crostini (kroh-STEE-nee) are similar to what we know as canapes. After rounds (or squares or diamonds shapes) of bread (sliced thinner than bruschetta) are toasted, (crostini literally means "toast" in Italian) they are spread or garnished with, for example, anchovies, cheese, seafood, flavored butters and various types of meat.


Bruschetta di Pomodoro
Yield: 12 bruschetta

Slice the bread (about 3/4 inch thick) into 12 pieces. Lay the slices on a sheet pan and toast in the oven (or grill), turning once, until lightly golden brown on both sides. Rub each slice with fresh garlic while still hot.

Topping:
2 medium ripe fresh tomatoes, cored, seeded, chopped
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground pepper
12-18 fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces
12 slices of the toasted bread
Grated Parmesan

Combine the tomatoes, olive oil, salt, pepper and basil. Spoon the mixture evenly among the slices of bread. Sprinkle on the Parmesan. Generally, three slices to a serving works fine.


Crostini di Olive e Formaggio
Yield: 12 crostini

12 slices of bread, sliced abut 1/2-inch thick, toasted on both sides
3/4 cup pitted black olives (Kalamata or California ripe black)
4 Anchovy filets
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Shredded mozzarella

Chop the olives and the anchovies together. Add the olive oil and garlic, then toss to combine. Spread an equal amount of the topping on each slice of bread. Sprinkle a small amount of mozzarella over the olive spread. Put the crostini in the oven (or under the broiler) to melt the cheese. Serve at once, about 3 pieces to a serving.

By Pasquale “Pat” Bruno, Jr.

What is it about wings? They have become so popular that I wouldn’t be surprised if some scientist is at work trying to figure out how to come up with a chicken that has four wings. It’s no surprise people love them — they’re fun, fast and qualify as finger food. 

But not all wings are created equal. I have had Chicken wings that were so scrawny I figured they might have come from a pigeon. I have even had wings that didn’t even taste like chicken. And I have had chicken wings that were so lacking in flavor it was an insult to the name, let alone the chicken.

Here are some of the basic facts: The secret is in the sauce (s). But I figured you already knew that, or you would simply be serving fried chicken wings. The ingredients? The chicken wings, of course. And the rest: hot pepper sauce, white vinegar, butter and salt. The level of heat is determined by the amount of hot pepper sauce used. Flour and cayenne pepper are also basic ingredients for consideration. For me personally, I like to add a bit of garlic (or garlic powder) and to play around with flavors. 

That said, sometimes basic is best. Here’s a simple recipe that’s sure to please.

HOT WINGS

Yield: 24 wings, or about 3-4 servings (scale up in direct proportion)

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (or to taste)
Pinch of salt
1/3 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup vinegar-based hot sauce
1 teaspoon black pepper
12 whole meaty chicken wings (chop off the tips and discard.
Cut each wing in half at the joint)

This is basically a five-step process.

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the dry ingredients – flour, paprika, cayenne pepper, salt.

2. In a sauce pan, melt the butter, hot sauce and the black pepper. Keep the sauce warm.

3. Toss the wings in the flour mixture to coat.

4. Deep fry the wings (375 F for 10 -12 minutes should do it) and drain.

5. Toss the fried wings in the hot sauce to coat.
That’s it. Simple. Now serve the wings with a dipping sauce on the side (blue cheese sauce or dressing and celery sticks are standard).

Quick `n’ Easy Blue Cheese Dressing

Combine 8 ounces of a softened blue-veined cheese with ½ cup sour cream and ½ cup heavy whipping cream. Use a fork to mash the blue cheese as you add the sour cream and whipping cream to combine. Whip it up to smooth it out. If you want to zip the dressing up a bit add some cayenne pepper.

Chicken Wing Pizza

This is such a good-tasting pizza you will wonder why you never thought of it before.

Makes one 14-inch pizza (scale up in direct proportion)

Make the chicken wings, following the basic recipe, through Step 5.

Pull the meat off the bones (you will need about 10-12 ounces of meat). Combine pizza sauce with Louisiana hot sauce (adjust heat to taste). Spread (lightly) the sauce over the crust.

Add the pulled chicken wing meat to the pizza, spreading it evenly.

Top the pizza with shredded mozzarella and blue cheese (to taste, but I use a ratio of 2/3 mozzarella to 1/3 blue cheese). Bake and serve.

Alternatively, for this pizza, instead of combining the mozzarella with the blue cheese, just go with the mozzarella. After the pizza is baked, and just before serving, drop dollops of the blue cheese dressing (see recipe above) on top of the melted mozzarella. And if you want to get really fancy you can garnish the pizza with celery sticks.


Are wings simple?

Yes. But what should you watch out for? What little problems could cause your wings to crash instead of fly high?

Problem: If the wings are moist or too wet (say the wings came in frozen and were holding a lot of moisture) the flour mixture will not adhere properly and your wings will have a gummy taste. Not good.

Solution: Lay the wings on a sheet pan and pat them dry with a paper towel. Turn them over and pat dry again. And then again.

Problem: If the wings come in frozen and you have not fully defrosted them, you will not only have the moisture problem, but you will have a longer cook time to get them fully cooked — which might result in a burned look on the outside and uncooked inside.

Solution: Lay the wings on a full sheet pan to defrost for 1-2 days in the cooler. Pat the wings dry of any excess moisture.

Problem: You don’t have a deep fryer.

Solution: Bake the wings. Toss the wings in a combination of cooking oil and cayenne pepper (to taste). Lay the wings on a full sheet pan and bake at 425 F for 20-25 minutes. While the wings are still warm, toss them with a combination of white vinegar and hot sauce. Serve with blue cheese dressing and celery sticks.

By Jeff Freehof

Bruschetta is such a popular item coming straight from Italy with so many different ways of preparation that are all relatively easy.

Bruschetta is an Italian word that simply refers to toasted or grilled bread that has been rubbed with garlic and drizzled with a little olive oil. Bruschetta is usually served as an appetizer, but can also be served as an accompaniment to a salad or, if prepared with a variety of toppings, as a meal. We have generally come to serve bruschetta pomodoro-style, meaning with a tomato and basil blend served on the crustini (toasted bread). Fresh basil or freshly made pesto tossed with some diced ripe tomatoes with chopped garlic and a drizzle of olive oil and pinch of salt is such a gorgeous blend of simple ingredients that truly define the pure flavors of Italy. I absolutely love when you can take some simple fresh ingredients that are nice on their own, but when blended together as in this case, create such a textural, visual and flavorful masterpiece.

Remember, however, that creating such a wonderful topping doesn’t have quite the appeal it should unless what it sits upon is equally great!

Of course, Italian bread would be my first choice, but a great French baguette would also be perfectly suitable. Now, there are different techniques that can be used in preparing the bread crisps, and I’ll share the two most typical ways to do this.

You can slice the bread fairly thin and rub the slices with garlic and drizzle a little bit of olive oil and then bake them in a 350 F oven to dry them out to make them crispy. This is the technique I would suggest if you want to prepare the crisps in advance to be served much later. You do want to have a finished product that is crispy but fresh. Remember to let them cool completely if you plan on storing them in a container.

The other technique would be to slice your bread a little bit thicker, ¾ inch perhaps. Use the same rub of garlic and drizzle of the oil but then grill your bread over a char-grill or even a hot flat-top grill. Be sure to spin the bread while grilling it and then turn it over to finish grilling the other side. If your grill is very hot, this should only take about 30 seconds per side. If you don’t have a grill you may broil this bread in your oven. This technique is much quicker than drying the bread out in the oven to make it crisp. This style of bread will have a nicely golden charred outside, but still be soft on the inside. It’s a totally different style of serving bruschetta, and I would only suggest doing it this way if you will prepare the grilled bread just before serving it. It is truly spectacular when it is served shortly after it comes off the grill. In addition, only place the toppings on the grilled bread just before serving so the bread doesn’t get too soft and soggy.

Now, let’s talk toppings! Bruschetta can be created with virtually anything your culinary imagination can concoct. Olive tepanade is a great choice along with roasted vegetables (zucchini, eggplant and red peppers), artichoke pesto, goat cheese with sun-dried tomatoes and sautéed baby spinach. A Mediterranean blend of Feta cheese, Kalamata olives, roasted garlic and artichoke hearts is a real crowd pleaser. To go the cold route, how about piping on some herbed cream cheese topped with thinly sliced proscuitto ham, smoked salmon or even cooked shrimp. If you want to use a cold cheese like this, I would recommend using the crisp version of bruschetta. The list of toppings and combinations can literally go on forever.


Margherita Bruschetta

3 ripe plum tomatoes, finely diced

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

1 ounce fresh basil, finely cut

4 ounces fresh buffalo style mozzarella cheese diced.

1 loaf of French or Italian bread sliced horizontally

Toss the diced tomatoes, cheese, oil, salt and pepper together and place a tablespoon of the mixture on each slice of toasted bruschetta. Bake the topped crustini’s in a 450 F oven for about 4 minutes. Just before serving, garnish each crustini with the cut basil and serve immediately. 

Chef’s Note: If you make your tomato and fresh mozzarella mixture a little bit in advance, the salt will extract some water from the tomatoes and you’ll want to drain that excess moisture before placing the topping on your bread crisp.

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno Jr.

Have fun with this “five-course” summer special: appetizer, salad, pizza, pasta, and dessert. I have a lot of recipes to cover, so let’s get right to it. Each of these recipes can be scaled up in direct proportion.

APPETIZER

Mozzarella Cheese Puffs

These golden puffs are flavorful and fun. Kids, especially, love these. You just might have to move them from a special to the regular menu.

Makes 12 puffs

2 cups flour
½ teaspoon salt
8 ounces unsalted butter, softened
1 pound shredded mozzarella

Combine the flour and the salt. In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter. Fold in the mozzarella cheese. Add the flour mixture and combine thoroughly. Shape the mixture into small balls (around the size of a golf ball) by rolling them in the palms of your hands and place on a baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350 degree F. Oven for 15-20 minutes or until the balls puff and are golden brown. Serve with a warm marinara dipping sauce.


SALAD

Bean and Tuna Salad with Radicchio

A cool, light and refreshing salad that works particularly well in the summer months. Put layers of thinly-sliced fresh tomatoes on the plate to form a flavorful and colorful base on top of which you can portion the salad.

Makes 4 servings

2 ½ cups canned cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
2 cups coarsely chopped radicchio
1/4 cup chopped red onion
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 cup water-packed Albacore tuna, drained, flaked
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

In a medium-size bowl, combine the beans, radicchio, onion, parsley, and tuna. Toss gently to combine. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, and vinegar until completely blended. Add salt and pepper. Drizzle the dressing over the salad and toss gently. Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving.

PIZZA

Pizza alla Funghi (Mushroom Pizza)

Earthy, flavorful, delicious. Call it a “Mushroom Lover’s” Pizza if you care to.

Makes one 14-inch pizza

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ pound shiitake mushrooms
½ pound portobello mushrooms, sliced about 1/4-inch thick
½ pound cultivated (white domestic), sliced about 1/8-inch thick
2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 14-inch pizza shell
8 Ounces shredded mozzarella or combination of mozzarella and Provolone

In a large saute pan set over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil for 1 minute. Add the garlic and the mushrooms and cook and stir until the mushrooms give off their liquid, about 4 minutes. Add the oregano and combine. Add salt and pepper to taste. Turn the mushrooms out of the pan and reserve (can be made several hours ahead).

Spread the mushroom mixture evenly over the pizza curst. Sprinkle on the cheese. Bake.

PASTA

Baked Macaroni and Cheese

Mac ‘n’ Cheese is one of the hottest dishes around. And this is my version of this classic dish. I use a combination of cheeses instead of the usual sharp cheddar. But the all-important flavor kicks — dry mustard and cayenne — are still included.

Serves 6-8

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups milk
1 ½ teaspoons dry mustard
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 Pound cavatappi or similar corkscrew shaped pasta
1/4 pound shredded provolone cheese
1/4 pound shredded Asiago cheese
1/4 pound shredded mozzarella cheese
1 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
1 tablespoon dried oregano, crumbled

In a heavy sauce pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking, for 3 minutes. Add the milk in a steady stream, whisking steadily, and bring to a boil. Add the mustard, cayenne, and salt, and whisk to combine. Whisking the sauce, simmer until it thickens, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water until it is almost al dente. Drain well.

While the pasta is cooking, preheat the oven to 350 F. Butter a shallow 3- 4-quart baking dish.

In a large bowl, stir together the cooked pasta, white sauce, provolone, Asiago, mozzarella, and 1 cup of the Parmesan, then transfer the mixture to the buttered baking dish. Smooth off the top with a spatula.

In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs, oregano, and remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan and sprinkle it evenly over the pasta. (This recipe can be prepared several hours in advance, covered and put in the cooler. Bring to room temperature before baking.)

Bake the pasta in the oven for 20-25 minutes, or until the top is golden and the cheese is bubbling.

DESSERT

The standard trinity of Italian desserts consists mainly of tiramisu, cannoli, and gelato, so maybe it’s time to think outside the box. Here’s a quick and easy dessert that offers relief from that boring old box.

Ricotta all’Espresso

This is a dessert you can count on for whipping up (no pun intended) real fast. Creamy and rick-tasting with a mousselike consistency, it’s one that adults and children alike will enjoy. If you don’t have espresso in house, simply use strong black coffee (or even instant espresso coffee).

Serves 4

2 cups ricotta cheese (not low-fat)
3/4 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/4 cup espresso or strong black coffee, cooled
2 tablespoons sambuca (optional)
½ cup finely chopped pistachios

Put the ricotta, sugar, coffee and optional Sambuca in a food processor or blender and process until creamy and thick. Spoon the mixture into tall serving glasses and refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours, until thoroughly chilled.

Just before serving, sprinkle some of the chopped pistachios on top of each serving.

Another option to jazz up this dessert would be to fold mini-morsel chocolate chips into the cheese after it has been chilled.

By Pasquale “Pat” Bruno Jr.

Let’s go back in time to May of 1889. We find Queen Margherita and her husband, King Umberto I, being served pizza at the palazzo in Naples where they are staying. The king and queen had heard about the famous pizzas of Naples, so naturally they wanted to try them. The pizzaioli chosen to make the pizzas for the king and queen was Raffaele Esposito and his wife, Donna Rosa. Raffaele and Donna brought enough ingredients to make three kinds of pizza. But when all was said and eaten, Queen Margherita chose as her favorite the pizza made with tomatoes, mozzarella and fresh basil. Patriotism met good taste head-on, since the ingredients on that pizza was the same as the colors in the Italian flag –– red, white, green. So, to this day, pizza Margherita is one of the most popular pizzas sold in this country and in Italy as well. The cheese used on that pizza was undoubtedly fresh mozzarella that was made using the milk of the water buffalo. Water buffalo milk has about 9 percent butterfat, which accounts for its incomparably rich flavor (cow’s milk runs about 3.5 percent butterfat).

There is nothing that quite approaches the lush, rich flavor of buffalo milk mozzarella. That’s the good news. The bad news is that it is very expensive, relatively hard to come by and has a short shelf life. Also, it does not melt the same way as other mozzarella choices, so the end result can get a bit dicey, especially with varying oven temperatures and pizza styles. When it comes to fresh mozzarella, cow’s milk mozzarella, known as fior di latte, is perfect for pizza. Since it is a pasta filata cheese it melts beautifully, has good flavor and is readily available.

The name “mozzarella” comes from the verb mozzare. Mozzare means “to lop off or tear,” and the process of working the curd, slicing or breaking the curd into small pieces is one of the key steps in making your own fresh mozzarella. I encourage you, quite emphatically, to try making fresh mozzarella. It’s quite easy once you get the hang of it. And in the same breath, I would encourage you not to try making your own curds (unless, that is, you have a cow and a book on the art of cheese making). My point is this: If you want to make your own fresh mozzarella, buy the curd (the solid pass that results when milk and certain enzymes are heated together). Curd to make fresh mozzarella is readily available from any number of cheese purveyors. Curd for making fresh mozzarella comes in various weights and is usually vacuum packed. It needs to be refrigerated and has a shelf life of about three weeks.

Let’s get started. There are 10 easy steps in making fresh mozzarella. Don’t let the instructions below dissuade you from giving this a try. The whole process goes very fast (probably around 15 to 20 minutes from start to finish), so in a few hours you can make enough fresh mozzarella to last for several days (relative, of course, to overall usage for fresh mozzarella).

Fresh Mozzarella

Yield: about one pound fresh mozzarella

2 gallons water
1/3 cup Sea salt or kosher salt
1 pound whole milk curd

1. In a large stockpot, add and stir in the sea salt. Bring the water to a temperature of around 160 F. Stir again to make sure the salt is fully dissolved.

2. Meanwhile, slice the curd off the block into pieces or strips that are similar in size. Put the strips into a large stainless steel bowl.

3. Pour the hot water around the sides of the bowl, not the curds. Keep adding the water until the curds are completely covered.

4. Using a wooden or metal paddle (or large wooden spoon), stir the curds for about five minutes to allow the water to be absorbed into the curds.

5. Let the curds rest for about 5 minutes. Discard about half the water. Repeat step No. \

6. Insert the paddle under curds. Stretch the curd over the paddle, working a small section at a time, until the texture is smooth. It should have a string-like or taffy-like consistency at this point.

7. Continue to stretch the mass, pulling it into a long rope. Work quickly –– stretch, knead, stretch –– to get the mass to a consistent, elastic, silken texture.

8. Take the cheese in your hands and begin to fold it under itself, which at this point allows you to pinch off sections and shape into various sizes and shapes.

9. Presto! You now have fresh mozzarella. Put the cheese into ice-cold water for around 15 minutes to set the shape.

10. To enhance the flavor, store your fresh mozzarella in a mild brine (salt and water) solution. Or you can simply store it covered with water, container covered and refrigerated.

CHEF’S NOTES: When using fresh mozzarella on a pizza, keep in mind that you will use a lot less than when using, say, part-skim, low moisture mozzarella. In fact, I use 3 to 4 ounces of fresh mozzarella (diced or cut into rounds) on a 14-inch pizza.
Flavor enhancements: For the ultimate pizza Margherita, you can infuse your fresh mozzarella with fresh basil. At the point of Step 7 add finely chopped fresh basil. Knead the basil into the cheese.

Pat Bruno is Pizza Today’s resident chef and a regular contributor. He is the former owner and operator of a prominent Italian cooking school in Chicago and is a food critic for the Chicago Sun-Times.

<<RECIPE>>

Marinated Fresh Mozzarella

This is a good recipe to have around when using fresh mozzarella as part of an antipasto platter or for use in a Caprese salad.

1 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced
1/4 cup torn fresh basil leaves
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 Teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Put the fresh mozzarella in a stainless steel or non-reactive bowl. Add the remaining ingredients. Toss gently to combine the flavors. Allow to marinate for up to an hour. Serve at once or chill a bit.

By Pasquale “Pat” Bruno Jr.

The appetizer section of menus has been taking a beating in the many Chicago restaurants I visit every day in my role as chief restaurant critic for the Chicago Sun-Times. I see customers moving away from expensive appetizers (and, believe me, the price of apps have gone through the roof) and moving directly to an entree (or possibly an inexpensive house salad before the entree). But it doesn’t have to be that way.

Appetizers are not on menus simply to boost the check average. An appetizer, as the name implies, is a small serving of food meant to stimulate the appetite. Antipasto in Italian. Hors d’oeuvre in French. Antojito in Spanish. Anyway you pronounce or spell it, the reason appetizers are the lead item on most menus is that it sets the pace for the rest of the meal. And, to that extent, it becomes your calling card. Serving a bad appetizer or two can throw cold water on everything to follow, and that will leave a bad taste in your customers’ mouths. Step up to the plate and make some magic with the appetizer portion of your menu.

Here, by focusing on zucchini and artichokes, I am only scratching the surface of the pantry of possibilities; however, by extension, you can take some of the ideas and methods included in the recipes that follow and put them to use in other applications. And, by yet another extension, take the accompaniments — dipping sauces, garnishes ­­— I am suggesting and put those into play with those appetizers that you might be featuring on your menu right now.

Allow me to whet your appetite with this very easy-to-do recipe for fried zucchini. The zucchini is cut lengthwise for this recipe. However, you can use the same method of coating and frying should you want to cut the zucchini into coins instead of strips. It boils down to simply a matter of how you wish to plate and present the dish.

Zucchini Fritti
Yield: about 4 servings (scale up in direct proportion)

1½ cups Parmesan
1½ cups Panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
½ teaspoon salt
2 extra-large eggs
3 medium-size zucchini, washed, trimmed (but not skinned), cut into 3 inch-long by about ½ inch-wide strips

In a mixing bowl, combine the Parmesan, Panko and salt. In another bowl, whisk the eggs. Dip the zucchini in the egg to coat, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl. Coat the zucchini on both sides with the Panko, pressing so that the Panko sticks.

Deep-fry the zucchini strips (in batches if necessary) until they are golden brown (about 3 minutes at 375 F). Drain on paper toweling. Can be made ahead and held for up to one hour. Serve with garlic dipping sauce on the side (recipe below).

Aioli Dipping Sauce for Fried Zucchini

A classic aioli is made with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and egg yolks, which by any other name is close to fresh-made mayonnaise. So in my version of aioli I take the easy way out by using bottled mayonnaise with no loss of flavor or overall goodness.

2 cups real mayonnaise
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 large garlic cloves, pushed through a garlic press
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (about 1/3 cup)
Sea salt

Put the mayonnaise in a mixing bowl. Whisk in the lemon juice, garlic and olive oil. Add salt to taste. Refrigerate (covered) for 2 hours to let the flavors develop.
Makes just over 2 cups. Scale up in direct proportion.


Batter-Fried Artichokes

It’s not easy to work with artichokes but, in the end, delicious trumps hard work.
Whether to use fresh artichokes and go through the process of paring and trimming the artichoke, or to use canned artichoke hearts or frozen artichokes hearts is up to you (my choice, unless I am stuffing the artichoke, is to go with frozen artichoke hearts). Whatever choice you make, give this appetizer a try, you just might be surprised how well your customers take to these golden, crispy, chunks of delicious pleasure.

Deep-fried artichokes can be as simple as dredging the hearts (halve the larger hearts to allow for even cooking) in flour and dropping them in the fryer. Drain and serve with wedges of fresh lemon.

Or, to make matters a bit more interesting, you can use this recipe, one that gives the artichokes a tastier, crispier chew.

Crispy Artichoke Hearts

1 pound artichoke hearts. If frozen, thaw. If canned, drain. (Pat dry in both cases)
2 large eggs
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan
2 teaspoons dried oregano

Cut the larger hearts in half lengthwise. In a small bowl, beat the eggs lightly.
In a separate bowl combine the flour, cornmeal, Parmesan and oregano.
Dip the artichoke halves in the egg, allowing the excess to drain back into the bowl, then into the flour mixture, turning to coat all over.

Deep-fry in batches (about 4 minutes until golden and crisp) Drain onto paper towels. Serve with a Dijon-dill dipping sauce (recipe follows) on the side. Or, if you want to take the easy (yet delicious) route, use a bottled ranch dressing.

Put the dipping sauce in a small ramekin in the center of a large plate. Arrange the fried artichoke hearts around the ramekin. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley (optional).

It is hard to gauge a serving portion, because of the varying size of the artichoke hearts. I can tell you that when I make this recipe for friends and family the artichokes disappear rather fast. However, the recipe is so simple it doesn’t take long to whip up another batch.

Dijon-Dill Dipping sauce

1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon snipped fresh dill
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Combine the mayonnaise, mustard and dill. Whisk in the lemon juice.

By Pasquale “Pat” Bruno, Jr.

It wasn’t too many years ago that squid was considered nothing more than fish bait. Now it is on the appetizer menu of just about every Italian (and even non-Italian) restaurant you can name. There are several reasons why calamari fritti has become popular, not the least of which is that it is quite delicious. Also, for the restaurant owner, the low food cost allows for a high profit margin (which is why some Italian restaurants serve really large portions to evoke that “Wow!” expression).

And, too, the ease by which the dish is made (it doesn’t take a culinary graduate to turn out a delicious plate of calamari fritti) and the reasonably quick prep time, makes this squid pro show an appetizer to contend with.
†Some basic information: †You can buy squid whole (body, head and tentacles intact). You can buy squid as a tube (just the body sac) cleaned and ready to slice into rings. Or, you can buy just the rings. Or you can buy rings and tentacles. Any or all of these options will come to you frozen.

The least expensive purchase is the whole squid. However, it requires some time for cleaning, but it’s not all that difficult. First the defrost: put the squid in a large stainless steel bowl of cold water and place it under cold running water. In less than an hour, the squid will be ready for cleaning. To clean, hold the body (mantle) of the squid in one hand and the head and tentacles in the other. Pull gently to separate the two parts. Cut off the tentacles just above the eyes. Squeeze the base of the tentacles to push out the hard round†beak. Remove the viscera and the plastic-like quill. Rinse the body cavity thoroughly and pull off the purplish covering on the mantle (all of this can be done a day ahead and kept covered in the cooler). Cut the body sac into half-inch rings. Cut the tentacles in half, and we are almost ready to fry. (I like to soak the rings in milk for up to 30 minutes to eliminate some of the fishiness.)
†
Calamari Fritti
Yield: 6-8 servings (scale up in direct proportion)
†
2 pounds squid rings,
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper

Heat the oil in the deep fryer to 375 F. In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt, pepper.
Toss the squid rings in the flour mixture to coat. Shake to remove excess flour (putting the squid rings in a sieve or strainer makes this go easier).
Drop the squid rings in the hot oil and fry for no longer than 2 minutes (overcooking turns delicate rings into chewy rubber). Remove from the fryer and drain. Serve with lemon wedges and warm marinara dipping sauce. For added interest, sprinkle each serving with finely chopped parsley.
Extra tips. For a crunchier ring, combine 1 cup yellow cornmeal with the all-purpose flour. Add 2 teaspoons paprika to the flour mixture to enhance the color of the finished product.

By Pasquale “Pat” Bruno Jr.

Garlic knots have been around for quite a while, but lately they have seen an upswing in popularity. There are a few reasons why that seems to be happening. Think of garlic knots as soft breadsticks with an attitude –– a bit twisted, perhaps, but kindly. Think of garlic knots as snack food, bar food, table bread and munchies for the kiddies to keep them happy until their pizza arrives. And, not the least of which, garlic knots allow you to get creative with your pizza dough (and dough that is about to go over the hill).

So what's the deal? Not much. You can use your existing pizza dough to create this tasty treat. Or, if you feel a little creative, you can mix up a batch of dough that has an extra ingredient (adding powdered dried milk to your dough formula will create a lighter, more breadlike product) and that will allow you to create your own signature garlic knots –– big knots, small knots, puffy knots, flavored knots, forget-me-knots (just kidding).

Let's go with the first option –– using your existing pizza dough –– to get started. The best way to get the ropes (knots, ropes, get it?) necessary to form the knots is to roll the dough into a rectangle. The rectangle can be any size you want, but 12 inches by 16 inches is a manageable size. At this point you can add some additional flavor by brushing the entire sheet of dough lightly with olive oil (for even more enhancement, see the oil-infused recipes that follow). 

Essentially, what we want to end up with are strips of dough that are about one-inch wide by eight-inches or 12-inches long (the longer the cut, the bigger the knot), so if you want to cut the rectangle in half –– lengthwise, then widthwise –– you will end up with dough strips that will work just fine.

Once you have the strips of dough to the size you want, the only thing left is to loop the dough into a knot (think pretzel). Be creative. The knots can have a single loop or a double loop. Play around a bit until you get the look you want.

If the dough you are using for your knots has already had one rise (say overnight in the cooler), you can go ahead with setting the knots on a baking sheet and sending them through the oven. However, if you want your knots to be puffier and lighter, set the knots on a baking sheet (I line the baking sheet with parchment paper, which makes the baked knots easier to lift off) and let the dough rise one more time, say 45 minutes, before baking. And, if possible, bake at a moderate (425-450 F) temperature.

Now comes the fun part. How do you want your finished garlic knots to look? If you want a shiny, unadorned look you can simply brush the knots with an egg wash before baking. But if that's all you do, then your garlic knots are not really garlic knots; instead, they’re rather plain bread knots. So, it would be a good idea to oomph up the flavor, and that's where the infused oil idea comes in.

Further, if you want your knots to have a certain look –– herby, rustic, gourmet –– you can jazz them up in any number of ways. Here are some tasty ideas that will have your customers singing praises for your fabulous garlic knots.

Garlic-infused Olive Oil

Yield: 1 cup (scale up in direct proportion)

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons minced garlic

Put the oil and the garlic in a glass container and let it stand in a cool dark place for 2 days. Strain, discarding the garlic. Store in a cool dark place for up to one week.

Pasquale’s Pizza Oil

Yield: About 3 cups

3 cups extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, crushed

5 tablespoons black peppercorns

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

3 sprigs fresh thyme

3 sprigs fresh oregano

3 whole 2- to 3-inch chiles, crushed

Combine all the ingredients in a glass jar or bottle with a tight-fitting lid. Let stand in a cool, dark place for two days. Strain the oil to remove the infusion ingredients. The oil will keep in a cool, dark place for about a week.

Use the pizza oil on your garlic knots this way: Drizzle the oil over the knots as they come out of the oven, while still hot (which is another reason why I line a baking sheet with parchment paper).

• More flavor enhancements: Once you drizzle the garlic-infused oil over the baked knots, sprinkle them generously with grated Romano or Parmesan cheese.

• The most basic approach of all to “dress” the knots is to combine, in a large bowl, melted unsalted butter with minced fresh garlic (to taste). Don’t use garlic powder or onion powder on your knots. The taste (and aftertaste) will not win you any new customers, and you may lose a few old customers.

Warm this mixture over low heat for about 5 minutes. Keep warm. Once the garlic knots are out of the oven, toss the knots in the garlic butter mixture.

• For a more rustic look, combine finely chopped parsley with dried oregano, dried basil, and grated Romano cheese. Sprinkle this mixture over the fresh baked garlic knots that have been tossed with the garlic-butter mixture above.

• Create some deeper interest by brushing the knots with a pesto sauce (after the knots come out of the oven).

Serve the garlic knots in a bread basket (heap them high). If you care to, you can serve them with a dipping sauce, such as a warm marinara sauce. Consider using a dressing, such as Ranch, but only if the knots were plain and not dressed with cheese, or herbs or pesto. Doing so would be overkill and a confusion of flavors.

By Pasquale “Pat” Bruno, Jr.

Appetizers are sizzling. I have never seen appetizers getting so much attention. Some restaurants are referring to them as “small plates,” but what we are dealing with here are, in fact, appetizers using a pseudonym.

Let’s take a look at what’s going on in Chicago when it comes to hot (as in popular) appetizers. For example, some of Chicago’s restaurants — La Madia, A Mano, Quartino and Osteria di Tramonto in Wheeling, a suburb of Chicago — are offering a veritable feast of choices that include a wide selection of salumi (sliced cured meats), some of which are made in house. Curing meats in house is not for everybody, but the alternative — buying quality cured meats — and serving them as appetizers must be looked into. Which cured meats should you consider? Soppressata (pressed pork), Finocchiona (fennel salame), mortadella, capocollo, salami Toscano, and prosciutto are some of the more popular choices. Offer a choice of , say, three different cured meats for a set price (or, if easier, price them individually). Arrange the meats in rows on a square plate and serve.

As basic as it gets with cured meats, even more basic are appetizers like roasted peppers dressed with garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, and capers (as served at Quartino).

Fior de latte (fresh mozzarella) should not be overlooked either. Pair slices of fior de latte with slices of fresh tomatoes and a chiffonade of fresh basil. Drizzle this combination with extra-virgin olive oil and you have an appetizer (often referred to as Caprese salad) that is easy to make and hard to resist.

At La Madia I was served an appetizer of oven-roasted Nicoise olives. How simple is this: Put the olives (mixed olives for more interest) in aluminum foil, dress with herbs, garlic and olive oil and roast them in the oven until just heated through. Put the foil packet on a plate and bring it to the table. The server opens the packet for the customer. The aroma alone is enough to cause a stir.

Another easy-to-do appetizer, one that is getting hotter by the minute, is known as Pizza Fonduta. Simply put this is pizza fondue. Use your existing pizza sauce. Thicken it a bit by swirling in some ricotta cheese and a generous amount of grated parmesan. Now give it some heat. Serve it at the table in a dipping bowl along with a mini-loaf of Italian bread. The customer is instructed to tear off chunks of bread and scoop it into the sauce (in Italian this is known as “La Scarpetta”).

Into Wisconsin, Il Ritrovo in Sheboygan does an array of creative and delicious “Antipasti.” One that is particularly enjoyable is “Mozzarella Pizzaiola.” In this rendition, chef/owner Stefano Viglietti sautes a slab of fresh mozzarella and pairs it with a light tomato sauce, oregano and olives. Garlic rubbed toast is the luxurious accompaniment to this delicious appetizer.

Here are two “hot” appetizers. I selected two that use eggplant simply because I am of a mind that eggplant offers the chef a wide range of delicious possibilities. Also, eggplant is, to my way of eating, a vegetable that deserves more respect.

Caponata Crostini
Makes about 4 cups caponata (scale up in direct proportion)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced in 1/2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon hot chili flakes
2 medium eggplant, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (to yield 4 cups)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
½ (One-half) teaspoon dried thyme
1 cup basic tomato sauce or pizza sauce
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 loaf Italian bread, sliced into 3/4-inch rounds and toasted on grill or in oven. While the rounds are still hot, rub each on one side only with a peeled clove of garlic. Set aside.
In a large 12 to 14-inch saute pan, over medium heat, heat the olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add the onions and chili flakes and saute for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the onions are nicely softened. Add the eggplant, sugar and cinnamon, and continue to cook for 5 more minutes. Add the oregano, thyme, tomato sauce and balsamic vinegar. Bring the mixture to a boil.

Lower the heat and simmer the mixture for 6-8 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Serve the caponata spread out on the bread. Relative to the size of the rounds of bread, figure about 2-3 rounds per serving.

Eggplant Rollatini
Makes 18 rollatini

olive oil
all purpose flour
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
3 1/2 cups fresh breadcrumbs made from day old Italian bread
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
18 1/4- inch-thick eggplant slices cut lengthwise
12 ounces shredded part-skim mozzarella
1 ½ (one and one-half) cups ricotta cheese
3 cups marinara sauce

Preheat oven to 350 F. Lightly oil half-sheet pans and one large baking dish. Place flour in a shallow bowl. Place the eggs in second bowl. In a third bowl combine the breadcrumbs and 1/4 cup of the Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle each eggplant slice with salt and pepper. Coat each slice with flour, then beaten egg, and finally breadcrumb mixture, pressing the breadcrumbs into the eggplant. Arrange eggplant slices in single layer on prepared sheet pan. Bake eggplant in batches until coating is golden, turning after 15 minutes, about 25 minutes total. Cool on sheet pans.

Mix mozzarella cheese, ricotta cheese, and 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese in medium bowl. Season filling with salt and pepper. Divide filling among eggplant slices (about 3 tablespoons per slice); spreading it evenly. Starting at one short end, roll up eggplant slices, enclosing filling. Arrange rolls, seam side down, in prepared baking dish. (Can be made a day ahead. Cover and chill.)

Preheat oven to 350 F. Spoon marinara sauce over rolls; sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese. Bake uncovered until rollatini are heated through and mozzarella cheese melts, about 20-25 minutes. Paint the plate with warm marinara sauce, arrange two or three rolls on each plate. Serve at once.

By Melanie Wolkoff Wachsman

Don’t limit the antipasto concept to platters. Consider the suggestions below to stretch antipasto across the menu:

• Create an antipasto salad where assorted meats, cheese and vegetables sit over mixed greens.

• Offer antipasto-style subs, paninis, wraps or sandwiches built around standard platter ingredients such as salami, pepperoni and cheese or roasted artichoke hearts, peppers and olives.

• Create a specialty antipasto pizza topped with roasted vegetables, cured meats and cheese. Instead of pizza sauce consider covering the pizza with olive oil and herbs.

• Enhance traditional bruschetta with antipasto ingredients.

• Serve a bite-sized amuse-boche of olives, sliced cheese or vegetables to diners before the meal.

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno

Some clarification on Pecorino Romano and Romano is in order. A true pecorino Romano is made from Sheep's milk (pecorino translates as "little sheep") and comes from an area around Rome (though pecorino is made in many regions of Italy). Romano made in this country is made with cow's milk.

Pecorino Romano, which is indispensable for cooking in the southern part of Italy, is a hard, compact cheese that is used mainly for grating. It is straw-white in color and has a hearty, piquant flavor along with a brittle, crumbly texture. Pecorino Romano generally undergoes a minimum of eight months curing in cool, damp cellars known as "cascine" in Italian. The more mature pecorinos are used for grating, while the younger pecorinos are great eaten straightaway with salami, bread and olives.

Romano made in this country does indeed have a sharp flavor, albeit not nearly as sharp as a true pecorino Romano. Since it is made from cow's milk, the flavor is milder and more agreeable to the American palate. Price notwithstanding (pecorino Romano carries a much higher price tag), many people find the sharp and aggressive flavor of a pecorino Romano too much to deal with.

The usage involved in either cheese is quite varied. I find that sprinkling grated Romano over the tomatoes on a pizza before it goes into the oven adds immensely to the overall flavor. I find that a mixture of grated Parmesan and grated Romano (three parts Parmesan to one part Romano) gives a pesto sauce the depth and character that it needs. I find that the sharp flavor of grated Romano is just the ticket for enhancing the flavor of homemade meatballs.

Here is an excellent recipe for a potato tart that uses Romano (or Pecorino Romano) cheese. This tart is perfect to serve as part of a lunch menu or lunch buffet when combined with a green salad (a slice and a salad). It should be served at room temperature or slightly warm.

POTATO TART

Makes 1 9-inch tart (can be scaled up in direct proportion)

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup milk, heated to simmering

3 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon ground pepper

1/3 cup freshly grated Romano or Pecorino Romano cheese

1 cup Panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

Peel the potatoes and cut them into quarters. Boil until tender. Drain and mash. Add the butter, salt and heated milk. Mix thoroughly. Beat the mixture until fluffy. Beat in the eggs, pepper and Romano cheese. Beat to combine.

Brush a 9-inch x 2-inch-deep cake pan (or deep-dish pizza pan) lightly with olive oil. Sprinkle the bottom and side with 1/2 cup of the breadcrumbs. Shake out the excess.

Transfer the potato mixture to the cake pan. Smooth the top with a spatula. Brush the top of the torta with olive oil. Spread the remaining bread crumbs evenly over the top. Bake the torta in a preheated 375 F oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until cooked through. Invert the torta onto a large plate. Let cool for about an hour before cutting into wedges.

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno

American Cheddar is generally made from pasteurized cow's milk. Cheddar is often referred to as the "big cheese" of American cheeses. Its popularity is quite evident, since the average American consumes about 10 pounds of cheddar cheese each year. The process of milling and piling of the curds (cheddaring) before pressing gives cheddar its name. Most American-made cheddar gets its color from a dying process using annatto (a special form of food coloring).

Colby is a cheese that was created in Colby, Wisconsin, sometime around the turn of the 20th century, and is quite similar in flavor and appearance to Cheddar. One of the big differences between Colby and cheddar is that Colby is softer and has a somewhat lacy texture. Also, cheddar requires some aging whereas Colby does not. Colby goes by the name of "Longhorn" when it is cut into half-moon shapes.

The similarities of these two cheeses rule out the idea of blending them. But you can take advantage of their similarities by using them interchangeably. Each cheese on its own can add some interesting flavors and textures. For example, I would use cheddar in a ham and cheese panini. I would definitely use cheddar (sharp or mild, it doesn't matter) blended with Monterey Jack on a Mexican pizza. On the other hand, it wouldn't make much sense to blend cheddar and Colby in, say, a macaroni and cheese dish.

Try both of these recipes to get into the tasty pleasures that cheddar and Colby delivers.

Spinach dip

Makes about 3 cups of dip

8 slices bacon

1 pound fresh spinach, cleaned and stemmed, or two 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed of excess water

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

3/4 pound shredded Colby cheese (mild or sharp)

1 cup diced tomatoes

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Cook the bacon until it is crisp. Drain, crumble and set aside.

In a saucepan set over medium heat, cook the spinach. Drain excess water from the pan. Add the ricotta, cheddar, and tomatoes to the pan. Cook and stir until the cheeses blend with spinach. Blend in the salt and pepper. Mix in the crumbled bacon.

Serve with large chunks of crusty bread or crackers.


Pizza Arrebba

Makes one 14-inch pizza

1 14-inch pizza shell

2/3 cup bottled chunky salsa

11/2 cups drained and rinsed black beans

4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

4 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro

Spread the salsa evenly over the crust, leaving about a 1/2-inch border all around. Spread the beans over the salsa. In a small bowl, combine the two cheeses. Sprinkle the cheese mixture evenly over the pizza. Sprinkle on the cilantro. Bake.

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno

The best part about having stuffed food on your menu is that, in most instances, the dish can be prepared ahead. Take stuffed peppers, for example. There is no way you can do stuffed peppers to order and make it work. The same goes for stuffed shells and stuffed cabbage.

On the other hand, stuffed mushrooms can be stuffed to order (the mushroom and the stuffing having been prepped ahead), and so can stuffed tomatoes. To “stuff ahead” or not, is the question, and the answer has to do with a lot of common sense along with the longevity of the product. I find that mushrooms that are pre-stuffed tend to get a bit mushy. And a tomato half stuffed with, say, sausage and cheese, is not something that will keep its good flavor for a long period of time (even if it were refrigerated).

Now what do we do with an assortment of stuffed foods? Will stuffed food work as an appetizer? Yes. As an entreé? Yes. How about dessert? Sure. Amaretti stuffed peaches will be a hit with both kids and grownups alike. Actually, I do believe you can stuff almost anything (within reason, of course).

So here for you to dig into and digest are a number of ideas for getting stuffed stuff onto your menu. Sample them out to loyal customers or employees to get some feedback. Then use a few of these ideas as daily specials to see what customers think about your new ideas.

Pesto Stuffed Olives

These are a great addition to an antipasto platter or, if you prefer, list it as a light appetizer (great for your customers to munch on while they are waiting for their pizza or pasta dish).

½ cup prepared pesto sauce
1/4 cup ricotta cheese
25-30 (about) jumbo pitted black olives

Whip or process the pesto with the ricottta until creamy.

Cut a thin slice from one side of each olive so that it will stand upright. Using a pastry bag or a small spoon, stuff each olive with the pesto mixture. Arrange on a serving platter. Serve lightly chilled. (Can be made ahead up to four hours and held, refrigerated).

Sausage Stuffed Mushrooms

Yield: depending on how large the mushrooms caps are, the serving size would be about 2-3 mushrooms

16 large mushrooms
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic
6 ounces bulk pork sausage*
1 tablespoon ground fennel seed
1/2 cup seasoned bread crumbs
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Shredded mozzarella cheese

Remove stems from mushrooms and trim. Finely chop the stems and sauté in butter in a large heavy skillet with garlic until mushrooms are wilted, about 3 minutes. Add sausage and cook, stirring, until just cooked through (do not over brown). Stir in the remaining ingredients, mix well; taste to adjust the seasoning. Allow the sausage mixture to cool for 5 minutes (Can be prepped up to this point and held).

To order: Stuff each mushroom cap (mound the filling a bit) with about 1 to 2 tablespoons of the sausage mixture. Sprinkle a small amount of the mozzarella over the stuffing. Bake in hot oven, 400 to 450 degrees, about 5 minutes. Or place the mushrooms under the broiler until the cheese is melted and drapes over the side of the mushroom.

* Pre-cooked sausage chunks can be substituted.

Stuffed Shells
Yield: Serves 4. (Scale up in direct proportion)

12 jumbo pasta shells
2 cups ricotta cheese
1 cup shredded mozzarella
½ teaspoon each salt and pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
½ grated Parmesan

In a large pot of boiling water, cook the pasta shells until they are not quite al dente (they will finish cooking in the oven). Drain. Set the cooked shells on paper toweling to dry. (Shells can be cooked several hours ahead.)

In a mixing bowl, combine the ricotta, mozzarella, salt, pepper, egg, and oregano. Whip with a large spoon until smooth. Refrigerate if not using at once.

Spoon a generous amount of the cheese mixture into each cooked shell, mounding the filling slightly higher than the shell itself.

If making portions to order, spread some warm marinara or meat sauce across the bottom of a baking dish. Put three of the stuffed shells on top of the sauce. Sprinkle some of the Parmesan over each shell. Bake, uncovered, until the sauce begins to bubble. Serve with additional sauce over the top or on the side.

Amaretti-Stuffed Peaches
It is possible to make this dessert ahead–stuffing the peaches and par-baking for about half the total baking time. Finish baking to order. Serve with a dollop of whip cream and a sprinkling of some extra crushed amaretti.

Makes 8 servings (scale up in direct proportion)

½ stick unsalted butter, softened
1 cup coarsely crumbled amaretti (Italian almond macaroons)
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 large egg
8 firm ripe small peaches, halved lengthwise and pitted

Preheat oven to 350 F. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter and swirl it into a glass or ceramic baking dish.

In a food processor, process the amaretti until it is the consistency of breadcrumbs. Add the flour, sugar, remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Process and blend until butter is incorporated. Add the egg and blend until smooth.

Scoop some of the peach pulp from the center of each peach half (I use a small spoon) to create a cavity that will hold the filling. Slice a small piece off the bottom of each peach half so that it doesn’t tilt. Arrange each peach half, cut side up, in the baking dish. Divide the amaretti mixture among the peaches. Bake until the filling puffs a bit and gets crisp (about 35 minutes). Serve warm with a dollop of whip cream.

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno

It was at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York, circa 1964, that owner Teresa Bellissimo created the now famous Buffalo chicken wings. As the story goes, she received a large order of chicken wings from a supplier and had to come up with a way to serve them in the bar. The wings were an instant hit with the patrons. The rest, as they say, is history.

As popular as those wings were in Buffalo, it took a while for them to gain status elsewhere. However, little by little, a wing here, a wing there, and suddenly there were wings everywhere, and it did not take a prayer to make it happen. Having been born in a bar, Buffalo wings were the quintessential bar food, but it didn't take too long for those wings to spread and fly across the country.

It would seem that now it is time for wings to fly even higher. I am suggesting a boxed-in section of wing flavors on your menu. Give your customers several options as it pertains to the style and flavor of these wonderfully tasty wings.

To get there, we need to first go over the basic steps of preparing the wings, the different methods of cooking and various dressing accompaniments.

• Halve the wings at the joint, then cut off the tip of each wing

• Figure about 4 wings per order for an appetizer serving

• Wings can be deep-fried, grilled or baked (the original recipe calls for deep-frying)

• Sauce and accompaniments are important, so pick from the various choices listed below

• For deep-frying you will need the oil at a temperature of 375 F. Cooking time is about 7 minutes

• Always pat the wings dry before immersing them in the oil (the wings cook better and spatter less)

• For baking wings, oven temperature should be 425 F. Bake time is about 30 minutes

• For grilling the wings, first toss the wings in vegetable oil. Grill for about 8 minutes on each side

• The heat (as in spicy) of the wings can be varied by the amount of hot sauce used


A typical wing menu should include the original Buffalo wing preparation, followed by, say, Italian wings and wings with a Mexican flair. Here is a road map for you to follow. Take a detour or two if you choose, but always come back to the main road.



Buffalo Chicken Wings


Dressing

1 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup plain yogurt

1/4 pound crumbled blue cheese

Whisk ingredients to combine or use a food processor. Dressing can be made ahead and refrigerated.


WINGS

4 pounds of chicken wings (about 16 wings)

1/2 cup unsalted butter

4 tablespoons hot sauce

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

Deep fry the wings (in batches, if necessary) until crisp, golden and cooked through (about 7 to 8 minutes). Remove the wings from the fryer. Set aside.

To order, melt the butter in a sauté pan set over low heat. Stir in the hot sauce and the vinegar. Add the wings and toss to coat.

Serve with the dressing and celery sticks. Serves 4

Italian Wings

1 stick unsalted butter (1/2 cup), melted

2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1 cup bread crumbs

1/2 cup grated Parmesan

1 teaspoon dried oregano

24 chicken wings, tips cut off, halved at the joint

In a mixing bowl, combine the butter, mustard, and cayenne. In another mixing bowl combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan, and oregano.

Dip the wings in the butter mixture, then in the bread crumb mixture. Arrange the wings on a lightly oiled baking sheet.

Bake in a preheated 425 F oven for about 30 minutes until crisp and golden. Serve with a warm marinara sauce on the side for dipping. Serves 6.


Deviled Chicken Wings

16 chicken wings, tips cut off, halved at the joint

1 1/2 cup bread crumbs

1 cup grated Parmesan

1/2 cup Dijon-style mustard

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne


In a mixing bowl, combine the bread crumbs and the Parmesan.

In another large mixing bowl, combine the mustard, vegetable oil, vinegar, salt and cayenne.

Toss the chicken wings in the mustard and oil mixture. Next, press the wings into and coat with the bread crumb mixture.

Arrange the wings on a baking pan. Roast in a preheated 450 F oven for about 30 minutes, until golden brown and cooked through. Serve with celery sticks and blue cheese or ranch dressing. Serves 4.

Mexican Wings

To give chicken wings a Mexican flair, simply brush the wings with a mole sauce (available from your supplier) before baking. Arrange the chicken wings on a platter with celery sticks and a ramekin of hot salsa.


Jerk Chicken Wings

This recipe calls for a marinade and some advance planning, but the results are delicious.

24 chicken wings, wing tips cut off, halved at the joint

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 cloves garlic

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 cup minced jalapeno peppers

1 teaspoon black pepper

8 drops Tabasco

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1/2 cup vegetable oil


In a food processor, combine all of the ingredients except the chicken. Pulse to puree and liquefy.

Arrange the chicken wings in a singe layer in a baking pan. Pour the marinade over the chicken. Let marinate, covered and chilled, for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Place the wings in one layer in a roasting pan. Spoon some of the marinade over the wings. Bake in a preheated 450 F oven for about 30 minutes, or until cooked through. Serve with celery sticks and trimmed whole scallions. Serves 6.

ZUCCHINI STICKS

Never look down on the idea of stick food as an appetizer option. Children and adults alike love stick food –– it’s fun, easy to eat, something a bit different. Stick food is here to stay.
I have written about fried mozzarella sticks for Pizza Today on several occasions and, no question about it, mozzarella sticks are a tasty, fun food; however, if the customer is ordering pizza (with all that cheese), maybe it’s a good idea to look beyond the cheese idea for a moment and think vegetables. And the vegetable that comes to mind for a delicious appetizer/stick food is zucchini.

Zucchini is available year-round, so getting it is not a problem. Food costs for zucchini are lower than that of mozzarella sticks, and the prep for zucchini sticks is a snap.

When purchasing zucchini, look for those with a bright colored skin and few blemishes or bruises. Generally speaking, smaller zucchini are much more tender than larger zucchini. Fresh zucchini will hold in the cooler for about one week.

You will note that I am not saying “fried zucchini sticks.” Yes, there is a recipe below that calls for frying, but there is also one where the zucchini sticks are baked (think healthy).

One of the important extras for zucchini sticks is the dipping sauce, so I am suggesting a spicy lemon aioli dipping sauce for the fried zucchini, and a warm marinara (or a warm pizza sauce) for the baked version.

Parmesan Zucchini Sticks
Yield: 4 appetizer servings (scale up in direct proportion)

1 cup seasoned Italian breadcrumbs
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 medium zucchini (about 1 ½ pounds), cut into strips about ½ inch wide and 3 inches long
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
Finely chopped parsley

In a large plastic bag, combine well the breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese, flour and salt.
Dip the zucchini sticks in the eggs then (in batches) shake them in the bag with breadcrumb/flour mixture.
Fry the zucchini in 360 F oil until golden (about 3 minutes). Drain on rack and paper toweling. Sprinkle with salt. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve.

Spicy lemon/aioli dipping sauce
2 cups mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ cup lemon juice

Combine and whisk all ingredients well. Store to chill in glass jar. Serve chilled with zucchini sticks.


Baked Parmesan Zucchini Sticks
Yield: 6 servings (scale up in direct proportion)

1 cup seasoned Italian breadcrumbs
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
5 medium zucchini (about 2 1/2 pounds), cut into strips about ½ inch wide and 3 inches long
4 large eggs, lightly beaten

In a mixing bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and the Parmesan cheese.
Dip zucchini strips in beaten egg then in breadcrumb mixture to coat.
Spray a sheet pan with cooking spray. Arrange the zucchini strips in one layer on sheet pans.
Bake in a 425 F oven for 20-25 minutes (shake the pans after about 15 minutes), or until golden brown.
Serve with warm marinara dipping sauce.

By Pasquale "Pat" Bruno

Never look down on the idea of stick food as an appetizer option. Children and adults alike love stick food –– it’s fun, easy to eat, something a bit different. Stick food is here to stay.
I have written about fried mozzarella sticks for Pizza Today on several occasions and, no question about it, mozzarella sticks are a tasty, fun food; however, if the customer is ordering pizza (with all that cheese), maybe it’s a good idea to look beyond the cheese idea for a moment and think vegetables. And the vegetable that comes to mind for a delicious appetizer/stick food is zucchini.

Zucchini is available year-round, so getting it is not a problem. Food costs for zucchini are lower than that of mozzarella sticks, and the prep for zucchini sticks is a snap.

When purchasing zucchini, look for those with a bright colored skin and few blemishes or bruises. Generally speaking, smaller zucchini are much more tender than larger zucchini. Fresh zucchini will hold in the cooler for about one week.

You will note that I am not saying “fried zucchini sticks.” Yes, there is a recipe below that calls for frying, but there is also one where the zucchini sticks are baked (think healthy).

One of the important extras for zucchini sticks is the dipping sauce, so I am suggesting a spicy lemon aioli dipping sauce for the fried zucchini, and a warm marinara (or a warm pizza sauce) for the baked version.

Parmesan Zucchini Sticks
Yield: 4 appetizer servings (scale up in direct proportion)

1 cup seasoned Italian breadcrumbs
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 medium zucchini (about 1 ½ pounds), cut into strips about ½ inch wide and 3 inches long
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
Finely chopped parsley

In a large plastic bag, combine well the breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese, flour and salt.
Dip the zucchini sticks in the eggs then (in batches) shake them in the bag with breadcrumb/flour mixture.
Fry the zucchini in 360 F oil until golden (about 3 minutes). Drain on rack and paper toweling. Sprinkle with salt. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve.

Spicy lemon/aioli dipping sauce
2 cups mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ cup lemon juice

Combine and whisk all ingredients well. Store to chill in glass jar. Serve chilled with zucchini sticks.


Baked Parmesan Zucchini Sticks
Yield: 6 servings (scale up in direct proportion)

1 cup seasoned Italian breadcrumbs
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
5 medium zucchini (about 2 1/2 pounds), cut into strips about ½ inch wide and 3 inches long
4 large eggs, lightly beaten

In a mixing bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and the Parmesan cheese.
Dip zucchini strips in beaten egg then in breadcrumb mixture to coat.
Spray a sheet pan with cooking spray. Arrange the zucchini strips in one layer on sheet pans.
Bake in a 425 F oven for 20-25 minutes (shake the pans after about 15 minutes), or until golden brown.
Serve with warm marinara dipping sauce.