
Who stands out as the nation’s top independent pizzerias? Pizza Today presents a list of America’s leading independent pizzerias. The following pizzerias are among the top five:
1. Buddy’s Pizza — Detroit, MI
This pizzeria started the Detroit-style — thick, square, sauce on top — pizza craze in 1946. Buddy’s has generated $20 million in annual sales from nine locations. The Motor City has even declared a Buddy’s Pizza Day.2. Marion’s Piazza — Dayton, OH
With its eight piazza-themed locations, Marion’s grossed more than $16 million in annual sales. Marion’s first location opened in 1965 and has been consistently voted Dayton’s best pizza in local media surveys.3. Frankie, Johnnie & Luigi, Too! — Sunnyvale, CA
The San Francisco Bay area pizza company has earned $12.5 million in annual sales from its five locations. The D’Ambrosio family opened the first store in 1958. Co-owner John D’Ambrosio is a World Pizza Champion, garnering international acclaim for the pizzeria.4. Glass Nickel Pizza Co. — Madison, WI
Glass Nickel’s eight units have generated $13 million in annual sales. The company, which began in 1997, has an environmental friendly philosophy, from its LED lighting to its alternative fuel delivery vehicles.5. The Original Giuseppi’s Pizza and Pasta — Hilton Head Island, SC
Giuseppi’s six locations have become fixtures as neighborhood places. The pizza company has generated $12.8 million in annual sales.
To view the entire Hot 100 Independents list, click here.
Mark your calendar for the October 2013 release of Pizza Today’s newest Hot 100 Independent pizzerias list. See which independents are the movers and shakers in the pizza industry.
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PHOTOS BY JOSH KEOWN
When you’re located in a large metropolis, it’s easy to get lost in the crowd. Luckily, Los Angeles-based Fresh Brothers is not just a standout in the pizza industry but also in the bustling central California restaurant landscape. Since its inception in late 2007, the company has grown to six stores with sales of more than $8 million. Sure they’ve got high volume, but their noteworthy leadership skills and successful operations have garnered the company national attention –– including our 2012 Independent Pizzeria of the Year award.
Adam and Debbie Goldberg, along with Adam’s brother, Michael, launched their first store in June 2008 following careers in television, but they didn’t enter the pizza business blind. Adam and Michael’s brother, Scott, owns Miller Pizza Company in northwest Indiana, and Adam and Michael based their core menu and pizza recipes on their brother’s. They tweaked it for central California, however, and placed a greater emphasis on fresh salads and wings. Today, the company has six stores in the L.A. area with two more slated to open by the end of 2012. Sales are expected to weigh in at just over $8 million this year and are projected for more than $10 million in 2013.
When coming up with a concept, why pizza? The Goldbergs noted a lack of upscale fast-casual pizza in their market, and having the support of their family made the career transition easier. “The big reason, for me, was because I thought I could spend more time with my family and my kids to be an owner-operator business with the intention of growing,” Adam says. “Our business plan was to open five stores in two years, and we ended up doing five stores in about 28 months.”
Fresh Brothers proves that a menu doesn’t have to be large to generate high volume. The focus remains on pizzas, salads and wings even as they expand, Adam says, “and we’ve made the ordering process easy. That’s very important. People can call us here who have never seen our menu and order a pizza.”
They make dough at their Manhattan Beach store and transfer it daily to the other units. “That’s a big end of quality control –– to make sure the consistency of the pizzas (is) the same from store to store,” Michael says. Sauce is made in-house, and in a bit of ingenuity, Fresh Brothers offers a secondary sauce for kids (offered at the cost of an additional topping) that includes a blend of vegetables mixed into the pizza sauce. The idea was even featured on the syndicated talk show “The Doctors” in a discussion on whether pizza was an appropriate menu item in schools. (Fresh Brothers has school contracts to supply pizza to several school districts.) “When we were coming up with the concept, we looked at everything from the perspective of a parent,” Debbie says. “I think our most powerful customer is the mom, and this is one thing that parents just love.”
Like most pizzerias, pepperoni and cheese top the list of bestsellers, but Da Works (Sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, green peppers and onion) and the Fresh Vegetable (fresh green peppers, onions, mushrooms, green and black olives) are favorite specialty pizzas.
“We bake everything –– nothing’s fried here,” Michael says. “Our fries, our wings –– everything’s baked. It goes right through the pizza oven.”
The company even hand-chops the vegetables for its popular salad offerings, which is based off a salad bar concept without the self-service, making it easier for the customer and faster for the stores. “We have a 40-item salad table, and we give people the opportunity to create their own salad,” Adam says. “People can choose how they want their salad –– tossed or chopped, do they want the dressing tossed in or on the side –– and (what exact) ingredients. Of course along side of that we have seven other set staples –– our Fresh Market, our Farmer’s Market, our Cobb … but I really enjoy making salads, though, and there (are) very few salad bars out there anymore that aren’t Bristol Farms or Whole Foods that you walk out at 14 bucks a piece. We wanted to do a fair-priced fresh salad.”
Debbie says part of Fresh Brothers’ salad appeal is that they go beyond the Iceberg lettuce and stringed carrots found at many contemporary restaurants. “We knew we could really set ourselves apart,” she says, by offering salad ingredients like hearts of palm, pepperoncini, avocado, fresh eggs and a variety of dressings.
Menuing items beyond pizza would require better packaging, and “we chose nice, clear plastic bowls,” Adam says. “We grew up eating salad in a bowl, not in a Styrofoam container. We thought that was real important as part of the marketing so you can actually see the fresh salad when you were handed it.”
While pizza makes up a significant portion of sales (up to 95 percent), “on a Friday or Saturday night at all of our locations, anywhere from 65 to 80 percent of our salads go with a pizza,” Adam says.
Vendor deliveries four times a week ensure freshness, and smart ordering and reducing waste keeps their food costs manageable. “We’ve actually found that we’ve made our ... walk-in cooler smaller, which forces us to order (product) more,” Michael says. “We’ve found that if we shrink down that walk-in cooler, it really makes you think how your product control is.”
“We’ve also pushed and negotiated with our food purveyors to give us multiple deliveries,” Adam adds. “They don’t want to do it. When you’re a one-store unit ... your terms are not nearly as good. You don’t have that credit yet. They only want to drop once a week.”
And when Fresh Brothers couldn’t source what they needed locally, they weren’t afraid to ship in product, such as the giardiniera they buy from a Chicago company. “We could not find a good giardiniera out here,” Adam says, “so we ended up shipping it by the five-gallon bucket. Now we bring it in by the pallet. We get one to two pallet loads at a time.”
They added gluten-free pizza to their repertoire after finding that many residents in their market had switched not only out of necessity but also as a lifestyle change. Michael says it took trying out six to eight different crusts before finding one that best replicated their thin-crust. “We now sell over a thousand of those pizzas a week,” he says. “We have our own menu dedicated to it, and it’s a big part of our business. The wonderful part of our gluten-free menu is that we’ve been able to bring families together to eat at our restaurants or to eat (pizza) at home because they couldn’t before. Johnny had a food allergy, so Mom and Dad stopped eating pizza. Now they can order a pizza for Johnny and a regular pizza for themselves, and everything that goes with it.”
They have a strict training program that educates employees on the gluten-free process. The crust comes from a vendor in a sealed box, “and we don’t want to say that we make it, because it’s a lot safer that we don’t,” Adam adds. They have a whole set-up in their walk-in cooler dedicated to making gluten-free pizza including separate products, tools and packaging. Boxes are taped shut for delivery or carryout so gluten-free customers feel secure in knowing their product hasn’t been tampered with.
Debbie adds that the addition of a non-dairy vegan cheese alongside the gluten-free menu has been “life-changing” for some customers who have not been able to enjoy pizza of any kind. “Being able to offer those has been very rewarding,” she says.
They test-marketed beer and wine at one location, but the upcoming Santa Monica store will have a full beer and wine selection, and future locations will offer it as well. Adding that component has been hindered by the size of their locations and current laws mandating bathroom sizes for restaurants with bars, but it’s not a large part of Fresh Brothers’ business. “A lot of it is just the demographics that we’re in,” Adam says. “Our model is based on a pick-up and delivery service, which is what we’re sticking to, but with our second unit, we found that when we put about 24 seats inside, all of our restaurants have communal seating outside as well, so we take advantage of that outdoor seating. In California, we have about 320 days a year that we can use that seating. We’ll always have some kind of seating in there. … A lot of it just comes down to the cost of real estate. We’d rather get more pizzas into people’s houses on the pick-up or
delivery side than have to pay for a larger space.” Delivery accounts for about 55 percent of sales across the chain. Michael spent 25 years in the trucking industry and brings that operations experience to the business. Managing the delivery side has been done through use of their POS system, and they say training helps expedite the high delivery volume. “We’ll have anywhere from four to 10 drivers, depending on location, working at one time,” Michael says.
Part of Fresh Brothers’ success lies in its infrastructure, starting with a director of operations who oversees a team of 12 managers. The company employs 255 people and like most restaurants, retention is crucial to smooth operations. “We’re honest (with employees),” Michael says. “We respect them. We’ve given a lot of people their first jobs just from walking in, right out of high school or while they’re in high school. Our management team, we train them very well and we watch what’s going on. I think it all comes down to respect, though. If you respect them, they’ll respect you back.”
Adam adds that since the company was founded as a family business, they try to extend that relationship to
employees. “We want them to feel, at the end of the night, that they had a good day at work,” he says. “They’re going back home to their families, and we want their families to feel good about where their kids are working.”
“Our retention is very good,” Michael adds. “We have original employees at our Manhattan (Beach) store who have been with us since the start. And, we have original employees who have moved up through the system. We have always put that goal out there for people if they are interested. Our management team probably consists of 50-50 coming from within or coming from the outside.”
The Goldbergs remain visible in their stores as much for the employees’ sake as for their customers. “The one thing you can’t put on paper is the attitude that you give to your customers and your employees,” Adam says. “They’re able to pick that up from Michael and I and Debbie, (and) when our brother, Scott, comes out or when our father, Gary, comes out. They see how we work and how we deal with people and how important it is to kind of duplicate that.”
Back-of-the-house functions such as payroll are kept out of the stores so managers can focus on day-to-day operations. They rely heavily on their POS system for daily ordering reports, which helps them stay on top of their food and labor costs. “That is a big part of our success,” Adam says, “to make sure that we’re on top of those numbers, even down to making sure our credit cards batch each night and the banks have receipts.”
“There’s no way we could be at six stores if we were sitting up at night cutting paychecks or trying to reconcile our bank accounts,” Michael adds.
Despite six stores and their planned future growth, Fresh Brothers’ owners remain active on a daily basis. Jumping from two stores to three was the most challenging –– Adam and Michael joked that since there were no brothers left to take the next store, they’d have to rely on outside help for management, and giving up that control –– even with 15- to 16-hour days –– was difficult at first. After six stores, though, “it surprises me every time I’m sitting in a store and I see someone park their car, come in and get a pizza and walk out to go home,” Adam says. “It’s the greatest feeling I have, and not that I should be surprised –– because that’s exactly the idea of owning a restaurant –– but four years later, I get such a kick out of knowing that that dad just came over to pick up a pizza to go home and feed his kids.”
With units now covering more territory in the L.A. market, Fresh Brothers has turned its attention to extensive marketing. Even with its first store, emphasis was placed on direct mail and print, and “a very big part of our marketing is through social media, as well as Internet sites,” Adam says.
More stores covering a larger area requires more advertising, and “we’ve sprung into radio in the No. 2 market in the country (and) we have three billboards throughout Los Angeles,” Adam says. “It all ties in. We have people who live in Calabasas and (work) in Beverly Hills. They order for their office at one location, and on Friday night, they can order food for their family at another. That’s the real key to our growth and building the brand, and that’s why consistency is so important, because many of our customers eat at more than one Fresh Brothers.”
Aside from in-store branding –– everything, right down to the napkin holders carries the Fresh Brothers logo –– they also have a “Fresh Fan Club” and “we’ve absolutely taken the
approach that it costs us less to bring in our current customers than to bring in new customers,” Adam says, but “we do both. We have marketing geared toward our loyal members who like to eat our food on a regular basis (and) to those who have never tried our food. And how do we get them?
“Our No. 1 secret is sampling our food. It’s where most of our marketing budget goes to on a monthly basis. We will spend upwards of $10- to $15,000 a month in giving away free food.”
All the stores with the exception of the Manhattan Beach location, which doesn’t have the walk-in traffic of the others, samples anywhere from 5 to 15 pizzas a day. An employee hands out one-by-two inch slices one customer at a time. It encourages people who might have seen the company’s billboard or heard their advertisement to put a taste to the name, and it also reinforces the brand for current customers and
encourages them to try something other than their usual cheese or pepperoni pizza.
Debbie coordinates the company’s social media and “in keeping with the idea that Michael and Adam are in-store every day –– at least one of them is walking around –– it is me talking to our customers,” she says. “We don’t farm it out. I know our customers through our Facebook page. I know who I’m tweeting with. I think that’s amazing, and that’s really unique. I think that’s where a lot of people go wrong.”
The team personally handles complaints through their Web site and social media, and five customers are called each day to get feedback and offer a discount for their next order. If the customer had a bad experience, that is expedited to an owner for follow-up and a promise to make the order right. Catering orders are also followed-up on in the afternoons after delivery.
“We encourage our management team to write up a gift certificate request for even the smallest mistake or issue that happens,” Adam says. “For instance, somebody orders an additional ranch dressing with their order of chicken wings, but they only got one and they call and we learn about it. We want to know about that, and we’re going to acknowledge that with a letter to them and give them a little something to get them to come back in next time. It’s all about that customer retention.”
They launched apps for iPhone and Android smartphones this year and offer a 10-percent discount just for using those. “We’re trying to draw them to that web ordering or app ordering because somewhere down the line, we’re going to start seeing the percentages change, and we can start reducing our labor,” Michael says.
An additional benefit to smartphone and Internet orders? “We see about a 10- to 15-percent increase per ticket,” Adam adds. Folks who might just order a pizza on the telephone see enticing offers for additions like salads and wings. The more menu items customers try, the more apt they are to reorder those items.
With its operations firmly under control, Fresh Brothers, it seems, is on the precipice of a very real and envious expansion, but this isn’t a spark-and-fizzle plan. In June, the company announced that it had received an equity investment from Michael Greenberg, co-founder and president of international shoe company Skechers USA, Inc. The partnership will add fuel to Fresh Brothers’ fire, and two new stores are planned this year in Santa Monica and Brentwood, California.
“I acquired a meaningful position in Fresh Brothers and expect to be an active partner in helping Fresh Brothers build upon the solid foundation that has been established since the company was founded in 2008,” Greenberg says. “I was attracted to Fresh Brothers because of the company’s family friendly menu and its compelling store level economics.
“My investment will be used to repay Fresh Brothers debt and to fund new store growth, with Fresh Brothers planning to double its store base over the next 12 to 18 months.”
With the new partnership, they don’t worry about growing too fast too soon, especially in the Los Angeles market, which has plenty of room without the potential to cannibalize themselves. When the company expanded from one store to two, “we were looking to tag the market,” Adam says. “Where we are, we’re looking at about a three-mile radius around each store to add the next store.
“As we got to our sixth store, we knew we needed to bring in not only somebody with some capital with the potential to recapitalize the company but (also) someone with the knowledge of how to continue to grow and what it takes to move forward in opening stores and other potential investment opportunities.”
Greenberg’s investment is not only financial. He also brings a wealth of business experience –– including international operations and expansion –– to the partnership, which is critical for the level of growth the company hopes to see in the next few years. “Michael’s vast knowledge of real estate development and business experience makes him the perfect strategic partner for Fresh Brothers,” Adam says.
Along with expansion comes the need to standardize their operations to ensure consistency from one location to another. They’ve created a master plan and future units will use the same design, which includes warm, muted colors, televisions and an open floor plan. They also use scales to measure and the exact same product from store to store. That uniformity strengthens the brand for growth outside their own system, but the intent is to remain private for now with a focus on Southern California first. “We’re not looking to sell franchises,” Adam says. “Every time we open a store, we get that much better. We’re constantly learning.”
FRESH BROTHERS BY THE NUMBERS
- Fresh Brothers served over a half million orders in 2011.
- Fresh Brothers mixed up more than 5,000 gallons of Fresh Kids’ Special sauce in 2011.
- 15 percent of Fresh Brothers’ customers order online or use their iPhone or Droid App.
- The Manhattan Beach and Las Virgenes school districts served more than 85,000 Fresh Brothers pizzas to their students during their 2011-2012 school year.
- 400,000 pounds of dough were made fresh at the Manhattan Beach Fresh Brothers commissary in 2011.
- The six Fresh Brothers units went through 375,000 pounds of part skim, lower fat mozzarella cheese in 2011.
- Fresh Brothers sold 225,000 pounds of baked Buffalo wings in 2011.
- Fresh Brothers is looking at 39 potential cities from Santa Barbara to San Diego to open locations in the next several years.
- Fresh Brothers locations are earning an average of about $1,250 in sales per square foot. A typical location is about 1,200 square feet.

What’s happening with America’s largest pizza companies? Who added stores in 2012? Who pushed their sales to record highs? Who dropped off a bit?
Last month, we published our list of the nation’s 100 most successful independent operations. Now, we present to you our yearly listing of America’s 100 largest pizza chains. Check out who’s winning big on pages 56 and 57.

1. Pizza Hut
Plano, TX
The original Pizza Hut store opened in a small building in Wichita, Kansas in 1958. More than 50 years later, Pizza Hut is the largest pizza company with $11.2 billion in annual sales. The company operates more than 13,700 stores in more than 90 countries.
2. Domino’s Pizza
Ann Arbor, MI
Domino’s story began with the opening of its first store in 1960 called “DomiNick’s.” Five years later, the company was renamed Domino’s Pizza, Inc., opening its first franchise location in 1967. Today, Domino’s has nearly 10,000 locations worldwide and $6.9 billion in annual sales.
3. Papa John’s
Louisville, KY
After college, John Schnatter began delivering pizzas out of the back of his father’s tavern, opening his first Papa John’s in 1984. With more than 3,800 locations and nearly $2.6 billion in annual sales, Papa John’s has locations in all 50 states and 29 countries.
4. Little Caesars
Detroit, MI
The first Little Caesars opened its doors in 1959. By 1987, Little Caesars had become a national chain with stores in all 50 states. Today, the carry-out pizza chain who coined the phrase “Pizza, Pizza” for its two-for- one pizza deal, operates 3,500 locations with $1.45 billion.
5. California Pizza Kitchen
Los Angeles, CA
California Pizza Kitchen (CPK) originated in Beverly Hills in 1985, quickly expanding to 30 states and 11 countries. From 2000 to 2011, CPK was a publicly traded company, before being acquired by privately held Golden Gate Capital in 2011. CPK operates 270 locations with annual sales of $715 million.
6. Papa Murphy’s
Vancouver, WA
The take ‘n’ bake concept began in Northern California in the early 1980s and has steadily moved east. Papa Murphy’s is the largest take ‘n’ bake chain with more than 1,300 locations in 40 states. The quick-serve restaurant generates $702 million in annual sales.
To View Top 100 Pizza Companies Click Link Below
Online View Click Here.
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Through the pages of Pizza Today and the seminars delivered at Pizza Expo, we have been in the business of delivering solutions and opportunities to independent pizzeria operators for nearly 30 years.
Now we’re pooling our considerable resources to take our knowledge and experience deeper into the market — to help operators and managers who are looking for more personalized assistance and in-depth instruction.
School of Pizzeria Management enrollees — with training provided by accomplished pizza entrepreneurs who give seminars at Pizza Expo and by the industry’s go-to consultant, Big Dave Ostrander — will acquire the skills to dramatically improve operations and profits.
The school’s first three courses are designed to give you the tools to grab control of your finances, increase overall efficiency, hire and train the ideal staff, grow into a market leader — and enjoy the freedom to work on your pizzeria not for your pizzeria. Courses include:
Course 1: (3-Day Session)
Profits in Your Numbers
April 22-24 and Oct. 14-16
Covers accounting, inventory, food costs and other methods for tracking dollars and earnings in a pizzeria. Each student builds a custom action plan with instructor help. Course sessions include:
• Financial Spreadsheet Workshop• Real Costs vs. Industry Standards
• FoodCost Pro Workshop
• Understanding Cash Flow
• Inventory & Budgeting Workshop
Instructors: Big Dave Ostrander and Jacque Farrell
Course 2: (3-Day Session)
Growth & Expansion
May 13-15 and Aug. 19-21
Presents the full range of possibilities for growth in an existing unit and delineates strategies for expanding to multiple units, emphasizing finances, staff, market research and operations. Each student builds a custom action plan with instructor help. Course sessions include:
• Growth Opportunities for Existing Pizzerias
• You Next Pizzeria: When & How
• Multi-Unit Pizzeria Management
• Operations Manual Workshop
• How to Finance Growth
Instructors: Big Dave Ostrander and Glenn Cybulski(May); Big Dave Ostrander and Dan Collier (August)
Course 3: (3-Day Session)
Employee Solutions
June 17-19 and Sept. 16-18
Offers proven ways to assemble and train staff, find and promote managers, and schedule, motivate and reward all employees for maximum results. Each student builds a custom action plan with instructor help. Course sessions include:
• Finding & Hiring the Right Employees
• Effective Cross-Training
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• Discovering & Dealing With Dishonest Employees
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Instructors: Big Dave Ostrander and Dan Collier (June);
Big Dave Ostrander and Michael Shepherd (September)
Click here to register today!
For more information, visit schoolofpizzeriamanagement.com

Each year, we mail out surveys to independent pizzerias across the nation. Using their responses, we compile our Hot 100 list — a ranking of America’s 100 largest independent pizza operations (based on sales). This issue is eagerly devoured by Pizza Today’s readers and the list you’ll see on pages 32 and 33 is a testament to the ingenuity, diligence and skill of the pizzeria owners who make the grade.
1. Buddy’s Pizza
Detroit, Michigan
Buddy’s first introduced its famous square pizza in 1946, sparking the unique Detroit-style pie. The pizzeria has grown to nine locations, generating $20 million in annual sales. Last year, the Motor City declared June 23 Buddy’s Pizza Day, honoring the restaurant’s history and its longstanding commitment to the community.
2. Marion’s Piazza
Dayton, Ohio
Marion Glass opened his Italian piazza-themed pizzeria in 1965, with an emphasis on large capacity seating. Marion’s has grown to eight locations. In 2012, the company grossed more than $16 million in annual sales. Marion’s has been voted Dayton’s Best Pizza in more than 30 local surverys.
3. Frankie, Johnnie & Luigi, Too!
Sunnyvale, California
The D’Ambrosio family opened the original pizzeria in 1958 in the Bay Area. Family-owned for more than 50 years, Frankie, Johnnie & Luigi, Too! earned $12.5 million in 2012, with its five stores. Co-owner John D’Ambrosio is a World Pizza Champion, garnering both “best pizza” and “pizza pioneer” in Salsomaggiore, Italy.
4. Glass Nickel Pizza Co.
Madison, Wisconsin
Glass Nickel’s ecofriendly philosophy is found throughout its eight-unit, $13 million operation, from its LED lighting to its alternative fuel delivery vehicles. Owners Brian Glassel and Tim Nicholson opened their first pizzeria in 1997 and have grown with strong commitment to its neighborhoods and community.
5. The Original Giuseppi’s Pizza and Pasta
Hilton Head Island, South Carolina
Thriving in each of its six locations as neighborhood places, The Orginal Giuseppi’s has a “cut no corners” approach to pizza.
6. Woodstock’s Pizza
San Diego, California
What began as a fun hangout for college students at Oregon State University in 1977 has grown into an eight-unit, $12.2 million pizza company. The pizzeria prides itself on providing a lively pizza experience and a signature pizza sauce from a Woodstock family recipe. Today, Woodstock’s is owned by longtime employee Jeff Ambrose.
To View List of HOT 100 Independents Click Link Below
Photo by Josh Keown
Depending on how you look at it, this is either a horrible or a fantastic time in the pizza industry — the entire restaurant industry, really.
Just like our nation has divided into political polar opposites, the pizza segment has separated into two basic categories: cheap pizza and fantastic pizza. No-limit $5 medium pies or $15 personal-size artisan pies. Gut fillers and “Wow!” experiences.
Where does your pizza fit in?
Every day I hear of new pizzerias opening all over America with the simple mission of making great pizza the Old World way: with wood, coal or standard gas-fired deck ovens. The foundation starts with delicious dough, simple, fresh ingredients and real skill.
Despite the largest portion of the pizza segment dedicating itself to selling the least expensive product, newcomers to pizza are pursuing their passion to create the perfect pie and backing it with blood, sweat and bank notes.
What once was old is new again, and customers are catching on. Not only do they “get it” when they taste a well-made pizza, they understand the passion put into it by dedicated pizza makers. They appreciate seeing someone put so much time, energy and effort into their meal, and they don’t mind paying a steep price for it.
And yet, amid what seems to be a never-ending recovery from the recession, I see more operators than ever giving into the temptation of catering to bargain hunters. I call it the “creep toward cheap.” Despite getting into this business because they wanted to make pizza, they’re focused more on making dollars than dough. Truly great pizza is a matter of the heart and hands. Making money is a byproduct — albeit a very good one if you’ve done the first part correctly.
Trust me, I understand what drives operators to switch from quality to cheap in hopes of raising sales. I’ve got six kids — two out of the house, four coming and going depending on where they are in their education and what favors they need from me and my wife. I know the stress and strain of putting food on the table, and I know how that consumes your mind when you’re fighting to keep your business in the black.
But what’s inarguable is the opportunity you’re missing if you just “go cheap” in an effort to survive. The restaurant segment is finally waking up to the fact that customers love not only really good food, they love the experience that should come with it. If they get both, not only are they willing to pay a little more for it — sometimes substantially more — they’ll even wait for it without fussing.
An example: Anybody notice how many “better burger” places have popped up over the last 10 years? The epitome of this explosion is Five Guys Burgers and Fries, which has more than 700 units and is adding another 100 every year. Working from a minimalist menu and selling the most ubiquitous sandwich in America, this simple concept posts annual per-store sales averages of $1.2 million.
The story of the company’s founders is similar to many others who have figured out that our business should be about really good food first. They knew customers were tired of generic, tasteless, dollar-menu burgers that spent more time in a microwave than on a grill that actually caramelizes meat. They knew customers wanted burgers cooked to order and served with fresh toppings and that they’d not mind waiting a few minutes to get it. They knew they didn’t have to reinvent the wheel to do it — they only had to go back and look at the original wheel (any of a thousand mom-and-pop diners that have always made good burgers) and build on that.
Of course, the same thing is happening in pizza. Nearly daily I hear of a new wood- or coal-fired pizzeria opening up somewhere in America. Maybe it’s a call from a friend who knows the guy or gal starting out, and they usually say about the same thing: “She’d gone to Italy, had that kind of pizza and wanted to do it here,” or “He spent a week in New York, wondered where such good pizza had been all his life, and now he wants to do it himself.”
Notice those two statements contain nothing about money. You don’t hear, “He saw this guy in Dallas selling pizzas for $16 apiece and thought, ‘Hell, I can do that and make some cash!’” What’s motivating these people to open pizzerias is the pursuit of great pizza.
The best example of this I’ve encountered is Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco. Two of its three owners are pizza makers: Tony Gemignani and Bruno Di Fabio. Both got their start in the business making high-quality pizzas, but after traveling to Italy for various competitions, both got hooked on Old World pies and set out to open a spot in 2009 that uses four completely different ovens to make five different crust types.
When I first heard they were planning this, I thought it so audacious I wondered if it were ego translating into overkill. But after enrolling as a student at their place last year, I recognized it as pure genius. Both men not only understand their customers’ desire for a pizza experience centered on handmade food, but they also very wisely meet modern desires for variety by creating pizzas for wood-fired ovens and American and Italian stone deck ovens. (By the way, last I checked, Tony’s weekly average sales were in the $80,000 range … and the shop is open just five days a week!)
After returning from that visit to Tony’s last year, I had a bit of an epiphany: many pizza makers could do something similar in their own shops. In the months since, I’ve helped some clients add a deck oven to their conveyor oven configuration — just stacked it right on top like you would another conveyor — to allow them to add more traditional deck-baked crust(s) to their menu. With that simple change, as well as a reformulated dough recipe for the deck, you can change an ordinary shop from a pizza production facility to a place where pizza is baked by humans.
Mind you, I have no objections to using conveyor ovens. I love them. They’re fantastic, consistent and arguably the key to why pizza chains exploded throughout the U.S. in the first place. But the difference between a crust baked directly on a screaming hot hearth and a crust browned on a screen over forced hot air is profound, not to mention delectable.
The simple addition of a deck oven to an operation presents incredible opportunities for menu expansion, not to mention the furthering of a pizza maker’s skill. Except for wood- or coal-fired styles, a deck oven presents multiple opportunities to bake and sell several different crust styles that add that crucial variety customers want.
Is it more labor intensive to do this? Yes. It will require new dough and new skills. (Not only do Gemignani and Di Fabio operate the International School of Pizza at their San Francisco shop, Gemignani teaches special dough making sessions every year at International Pizza Expo.) But let’s be honest, good pizza takes work; cheap pizza … not so much. And that’s why it’s hardly worth the $5.99 customers are paying for it.
A change like this means raising the bar on your pizza and pushing yourself to do something new by reaching back to the pizza traditions of old. It likely means getting out of your shop and finding out what good pizza really is and relying on your pizza peers for information on how to do it.
It also could require you to stop merely making a living in order to revisit the joy of making pizza for a living. In the past two decades, too many people got into the business looking solely for ROI. But in the past several years, a new group has joined the ranks out of a passion to make great food and create an experience for their patrons. If you can create both in your shop, you’ll forever lose the temptation to “compete cheap” — because your sales will show you it’s not necessary.
Big Dave Ostrander owned a highly successful independent pizzeria before becoming a consultant, speaker and internationally sought-after trainer. He is a monthly contributor to Pizza Today and leads seminars on operational topics for International Pizza Expo.

Photos by Josh Keown & Rick Daugherty
NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

The original. The standard by which all other pizzas are judged.
A Neapolitan pizza is defined by the ingredients used to make it and the way it is cooked. Special flour, tomatoes and cheeses must be used to qualify as Neapolitan. Additionally, these pizzas must be cooked in wood-burning ovens.
The hallmarks of a Neapolitan pie are easy to see: charred crust, sparse topping application, a raised border.
SICILIAN

Photo by Rick Daugherty
Many similar styles exist throughout the country. In the Midwest, for
example, deep-dish pizza is prominent. The differences between a pan pizza and a Sicilian pie can be subtle.
The trademark of a Sicilian is that it is baked in a rectangular pan and cut into squares. Some places throughout the U.S. serve Sicilian-style pizza by the slice, but it’s more common to see these offered only as whole pies.
ROMAN

Photo by Josh Keown
Its thin crust and oblong shape immediately distinguishes a Roman pizza from other styles. Sometimes these pizzas are sold by weight or by the meter, which is certainly unique (and rare) here in the U.S.
NEW YORK

Photo by Josh Keown
The most imitated style of pizza in the United States.
New York-style pizzas feature oversized, foldable slices that can be eaten on the go.
A raised border and thin center are indentifying markers that prove New York pizza evolved from its Neapolitan forerunner.
The first licensed pizzeria in the U.S., Lombardi’s, opened in New York City in 1905. Pizza has been a national hit ever since.
NEW HAVEN

Photo by Rick Daugherty
Another pizza style that evolved from Neapolitan and New York roots, with noticeable variations.
New Haven-style pizzas are thin, crispy and oval shaped. Since they are always hand formed, no two are ever quite alike, and that’s the beauty of it.
Piece Brewery & Pizzeria owner Bill Jacobs, our 2011 Independent of the Year, does a nice job of breaking down New Haven “apizza” in his article that begins on page 12.
TOMATO TRENTON

Photo by Josh Keown
In Trenton, New Jersey, folks don’t go out for pizza. They go out for “tomato pies.”
The obvious hallmark of this style is that the sauce goes on top of the cheese (some customers prefer the pies with no cheese at all, as seen in this photo).
While not a common style throughout the U.S., tomato pies certainly have a rabid fan base in Jersey.
CHICAGO THICK

Photo by Josh Keown
Chicago is home to many styles of pizza, but none is as well known as the deep-dish, stuffed variety.
Essentially a casserole of delicious ingredients, Chicago-style pies are hearty and filling. It’s no wonder plenty of Windy City tourists don’t leave town without trying an authentic version for themselves.
CHICAGO THIN

Photo by Josh Keown
While most people think of deep, stuffed pizzas when Chicago-style pies are mentioned, the fact of the matter is that there are plenty of pizzerias in the Windy City that only serve thin-crust pizza.
Also called tavern-style pizza, these pies typically feature a crispy crust. Also, they’re quite often cut into squares.
DETROIT

Photo by Rick Daugherty
Deep, oiled squarish pans are used to bake these beauties, which are closely related to Sicilian and “Italian bakery” style pizzas.
Though not always, Detroit-style pizzas sometimes are twice baked to achieve a crispy finished texture.
TRADITIONAL AMERICAN
(no image)
Photo by Josh Keown
The most common style of pizza in the U.S. Though based on New York-style pizza, these pies can be hand-tossed, hand formed on the make line or even put through a pizza press.
They feature the raised border reminiscent of New York pizza, but are typically just a little thicker throughout and often utilize more cheese.
DISH DEEP

Photo by Josh Keown
Particularly popular in the Midwest, this style of pizza speaks for itself. It’s a close cousin to the Chicago stuffed pie, the obvious difference being that all the toppings are placed on the top and there is only one layer of dough.
Deep-dish pizza is sometimes cut into wedges, sometimes cut into square slices.
CALIFORNIA ARTISAN

Photo by Rick Daugherty
Typically, these pizzas have either a Neapolitan or New York-style crust as the foundation. The focus on these pizzas? Freshness and creativity.
California artisan or gourmet pizzas utilize a range of ingredients and toppings. Nothing is off limits as establishments that serve this style continue to push the envelope and experiment with
local produce, exotic meats or alternative sauces.
GRANDMA — These pizzas originated on Long Island and really haven’t spread outside of New York. Think of a thin crust version of a Sicilian pie.
Here are a handful of other styles that you may or may not have heard of:
Grilled Pizza — A specialty of Providence, Rhode Island, and a newfound favorite of adventerous home cooks everywhere. This thin-crusted pizza is cooked exactly as its name implies — on the grill.
Old Forge — A cousin of the Sicilian style, albeit a little thinner. Like Sicilian, cut into squares.
St. Louis — What makes this pizza unique is the cheese blend: provolone, swiss, white cheddar. That’s right, no mozz! Beyond that, this is essentially a Midwest thin-crust pizza.
To view videos on how to make many of the pizzas featured in this special issue, visit The Video Gallery at PizzaToday.com
From time to time I am asked a question about a term that I've used in one of my articles. As a result, I've come to discover that a lot of operators are not familiar with the terms that I just take for granted. To help bring everyone up to speed on some of the more commonly used terms, I've compiled the following list of terms and descriptions.
As our industry is growing in size and technology, we've found it necessary to use some specific terms to describe various things that are happening, or various pieces of equipment. This is an explanation of what some of the more common terms are.
Air Deck Oven — This is a specialized oven employing the air impingement baking technology in a deck-type oven configuration. Blown Dough — This refers to dough that has fermented excessively and is now one large piece of ragged dough seeping from the dough box rather than a number of well defined dough balls. Blown dough is generally discarded as waste.
Bulk Fermentation — In this fermentation process, the dough is allowed to rise in bulk, as one large piece immediately after mixing. Because the mass of the dough helps to retain its temperature, bulk fermented doughs are generally fermented at room temperature. Bulk fermentation times generally range from two to eight hours.
Cold Press — A cold press forms the dough by pressing the dough without the use of heat. Because of this, cold pressed doughs must have a very soft, extensible characteristic, and since the formed dough is so soft, it must be pressed onto a special pan, with circular corrugations formed into the bottom of the pan. These corrugations are designed to help hold the dough in place after pressing and reduce the amount of shrinkage.
Combined Technology Oven — There are some new, high-tech ovens available that can utilize a combination of three or more baking/heat transfer technologies. For the most part, these ovens will bake a pizza very fast, but they have a very limited capacity, which tends to limit their applications.
Convection Oven — These ovens use forced air circulation in the baking chamber to achieve improved baking characteristics. These ovens should not be confused with air impingement ovens, which utilize a much more focused airflow onto the pizza. Convection ovens are generally lacking in the bottom heat necessary to properly bake a pizza.
Cooler/Retarder — A walk-in or reach-in area where the temperature is held at 35-40 F.
Cross Stacking — The perpendicular placement of dough boxes, one on top of the other at 90 degree angles, to allow air to circulate around the dough balls while they are being cooled.
Deck Oven — This is the old, traditional workhorse of the pizza industry. They have a large flat deck for baking upwards of a dozen pizzas at a time. Pizzas must be manually "peeled" in and out of the oven.
Dough Box — A plastic box for holding dough balls in the cooler. They are designed to be stacked with the top box nesting slightly into the box beneath it, forming an effective lid.
Dough Divider — A mechanical device for accurately portioning the dough into smaller, select weight pieces.
Dough Docker — A dough docker is a tool that is passed over the dough with some downward force to crimp the top and bottom layers of the dough together. The result is a control in the number and size of blisters or bubbles that develop atop the crust during baking. The dough docker is sometimes erroneously called a "dough perforator". The docker has blunt pins that are designed to crimp the dough together, much like spot welding, and does not actually perforate the dough.
Dough Fermentation — Dough fermentation is the time that the yeast is allowed to act upon the dough/flour between mixing and shaping or forming.
Dough Memory/Snap Back — Dough memory is the phenomenon that is seen when a dough piece is formed out to the desired diameter, and then within a matter of seconds it shrinks back to a smaller size.
Dough Rounder — A mechanical device for shaping a cut/divided dough piece and forming it into a symmetrical, round ball.
Dough Sheeter — The dough sheeter is sometimes called a dough roller. It is designed to sheet a dough ball out to a predetermined thickness by two or more passes through the sheeting rolls.
Down Stacking — Removing the top box from a cross stacked column of boxes and placing it in the lowermost position of a new stack. In this stack, each box will be placed parallel to the other boxes allowing them to nest in each other for an air tight seal, thus preventing drying of the dough balls.
Emergency Dough — This is a dough that is made as a derivation of your regular pizza dough formula. It is designed to be made in the event that you should lose your regular dough for whatever reason. As the name implies, it should only be used for those "special" emergency occasions when you would otherwise be unable to open your store due to the loss of your dough during the night. Emergency doughs are made by increasing the dough temperature to 90-95 F, and doubling the normal yeast content. The dough is divided and formed into dough balls immediately after mixing, wiped with oil and placed into dough boxes to proof for 1.5 to 2 hours. The dough is then ready to form into skins.
Gum Line — A doughy, gum-like line that can develop between the crust and the cheese topping. Pre-saucing a skin without first applying a light coating of oil to the dough surface can result in the development of a gum line.
Hand Forming — Shaping a dough piece into a pizza skin by any of several methods using one’s hands.
Hot Press — There are two types of hot presses currently in use. Those with just a heated head (top part of the press), and those with both a heated head and platten (base/bottom plate). Some hot presses will only press out a flat-shaped dough piece; some are designed to press out dough into a deep-dish pan. Additionally, since the bottom of the dough has been heated, it takes on a dry feel, allowing it to be easily handled without the need of a pan under it.
Related
One aspect of pizza dough production that just doesn’t go away is that of flavored or herb infused dough. A number of years ago, several of the big box chains offered herb-flavored doughs. Then a lot of the independents got into the act, too. The trend waxed and waned over the years, but this time it appears to have come with some baggage –– today, herb and flavored doughs have captured the attention of industrial suppliers who want to make the use of various herbs and flavoring materials easier and more flavorful than ever before. If successful, flavored doughs may take on a whole new personality and level of acceptance in the months to come.
When making flavored doughs we must keep in mind that both garlic and onion need to be used in moderation as they can soften or weaken the dough. It is suggested that the combined level for both of these ingredients not exceed 0.15 percent of the total flour weight in the dough. To find what this weight should be, use your calculator and enter the flour weight –– preferably in ounces –– and then press “x” followed by 0.15. Next, press the “%” key and read the answer in the display window. Remember, it will be expressed in the same weight measures that the flour was given in. For example, if you are using
25 pounds of flour, the calculation would look like this: 25 x 16 = 400-ounces of flour; 400 x 0.15 press the “%” key and read 0.6 ounces of combined onion and garlic powder. If a level greater than this is added, you will need to make adjustments to the way you handle and manage your dough to accommodate the increased softness and weakness. If you are already using an L-cysteine, or dead yeast-based dough softener, you should be able to replace all or a portion of it with the onion, and/or garlic powder, thus getting the flavor and dough softening all at the same time and (possibly saving you a few pennies in the process).
No such precautions need to be taken with any of the other ingredients commonly used to flavor the dough/crust such as oregano, basil, pepper, sun-dried tomato, Parmesan cheese, Romano cheese, olives, rosemary, red and green peppers, etc. Sun-dried tomato is the only one of these that comes to mind as needing any special handling or treatment prior to addition to the dough. These need to be presoaked in oil (preferably olive oil) for several hours or overnight. Failure to do so will result in the tomatoes having all of the textural properties of little pieces of leather in the dough. Any of the other herbs can be added just as they are. They will hydrate from the moisture in the dough and give off a wonderful flavor and aroma as a result of the baking process. All of those little pieces of red and green will also provide an interesting and somewhat rustic appearance to the dough that compliments its unique flavor.
There is another side to flavoring of doughs that we don’t hear about, or even see very often, but deserves mention. That is the use of traditional flavoring materials such as cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla or even butter or butter flavorings. Cinnamon is the one flavoring material that takes consideration because it can dramatically slow down or even stop the yeast activity when added directly to the dough. This is the reason why we see such things as cinnamon swirl bagels, and cinnamon swirl bread. In both of these cases, the cinnamon is added to the dough as opposed to being incorporated into it. This greatly nullifies the adverse effect of the cinnamon on the yeast. In a pizza dough we can blend the cinnamon with a butter flavored oil or plain salad oil and add it to the dough during the last 30-seconds of the mixing time. This will allow the cinnamon paste to be swirled through the dough, creating a cinnamon swirl crust that might be just the ticket for making a dessert pizza. Or, you might find that blending the cinnamon into a quantity of melted butter to make a thin paste consistency can be easily spread onto a regular dough skin and then topped with pieces of fresh fruit, or drained fruit cocktail.
On an even easier note you can simply take one of your regular thin- crust dough skins and brush it with water, then sprinkle on a combination of cinnamon and sugar (16-ounces of granulated sugar and 1½ to 2 ounces of cinnamon). Dock the dough well and bake until it is set and just begins to brown. Cut the baked crust into strips 1 to 1½-inches wide and about 3 inches long and serve with a simple powdered sugar-water dipping icing to which a little vanilla flavoring has been added for a very fast and easy dessert offering.
While we’re on the topic of dough for dessert pizza, the addition of vanilla flavoring to the dough is often overlooked, or in many cases never even heard of. Vanilla or a blended vanilla-butter flavor can be added to the dough to create a unique and rich tasting crust flavor for any of your dessert pizzas. No other dough changes are needed, just portion out the needed amount of flavoring and process the dough in your normal manner. Due to the vast differences in the concentration of vanilla flavors, it is recommended that you experiment with a reputable brand product to find the amount that works best in your specific application.
When using fresh or dried herbs in your dough, begin using them at 10 percent of the flour weight and go up from there to a maximum of about 25 percent. Depending upon the composition of the herb mix that you elect to use, you will probably find that the best flavor, aroma and appearance characteristics are had at around the 15 percent level. If cheese is the only material being added to the dough, the best levels seem to be around 8 to 12 percent of the flour weight. And if cheese is included in an herb blend, you will probably find that an addition level of 15 to 20 percent works well. When fresh herbs such as fresh basil, oregano, onion or garlic are used in the herb blend, it is not uncommon to see the blends being used at levels approaching the 25 percent level. Like everything else though, you will need to experiment to find what works best for you in your specific application.u
Tom Lehmann is a director at the American Institute of Baking in Manhattan, Kansas.
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PHOTOS BY JOSH KEOWN
Why are pizza dough recipes/formulas expressed in percentages rather than in amounts?
The easiest way to express a dough formula is in what is referred to as baker’s percent. The amount of each ingredient is expressed as a percent of the total flour weight used in the dough formulation. This allows for easy checking to make sure all ingredients are in correct balance regardless of batch size, and it also allows you to adjust the batch/dough size up or down while keeping all ingredients in correct balance. To find the correct weight for each ingredient you must first decide how much flour you want to use. The total flour weight is always equal to 100 percent. Here is a typical dough formula in baker’s percent:
Flour: 100 percent
Salt: 1.75 percent
Sugar: 1.5 percent
Instant Dry Yeast: 0.375 percent
Oil: 2 percent Water: 58 percent
Let’s say we want to use 35 pounds of flour. To find the amount of each ingredient, using your handy calculator enter the flour weight X the ingredient percent and press the “%” key, then read the ingredient weight in the display window. Remember, the ingredient weight will be in the same weight units that the flour weight is expressed in. To manipulate the size of your dough, simply plug in the new flour weight and repeat the above calculator entries. It really is that easy.
If you already know the ingredient weights and you want to put the formula into baker’s percent, start out by putting 100 percent next to the flour weight. Flour is always equal to 100 percent. Then divide each ingredient weight by the flour weight and multiply by 100 to get the baker’s percent for each of the ingredients.
Here are a couple of neat things that you can use baker’s percent for:
If you add up all of the percentages, in the example formula above, we get 163.625 percent. Divide this by 100 and you get 1.63625 (call it 1.63). How much dough will this formula make? To answer that question just multiply the flour weight by 1.63. If we are using 35 pounds of flour we will get 1.63 x 35 = 57.05 (call it 57 pounds) of dough. If I were to increase the dough weight to 40 pounds we would get 1.63 x 40 = 65.2 (call it 65 pounds) of dough. u If you have an order for 30 large pizzas tomorrow, and your dough weight for each large pizza is 17½ ounces, how much dough would you need to make just for this order? Here is how you do it:
30 x 17.5-ounces = 525-ounces of dough will be needed. Divide the total dough weight (525 ounces) by 1.63 to find the total flour weight needed to make a dough weighing 525-ounces. 525 divided by 1.63 = 322.08 (call it 321ounces/20 pounds) of flour would be needed to make the dough for this order.
As you can see, baker’s percent can be a pretty handy tool to work with.
Tom Lehmann is a director at the American Institute of Baking in Manhattan, Kansas.
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Quite frequently the question arises: How long can I keep my pizza dough in the cooler? The second question: How can I keep it in the cooler for a longer time? To answer these questions, we need to understand some of the basic mechanics of yeast fermentation along with a little physics 101. But first, we must know what the actual shelf life of our dough is. If you find that your dough sometimes blows after only 12 to 15 hours in the cooler, then it must be assumed that your actual, effective shelf life is less than 12 to 15-hours. But sometimes we get dough that doesn’t blow right away in the cooler, and it may be good for two or three days.
Why is this?
The most common detractor to long refrigerated shelf life is incorrect dough management practices. Dough that is above the recommended temperature range of 80 to 85 F may take too long to efficiently cool down to a stabilizing temperature when the dough is taken to the cooler. This can result in excessive fermentation taking place during the refrigerated storage period, which results in over-proofed dough that is either on the verge of collapse or experiences total collapse when the dough balls are removed from the storage box.
Another, and possibly the most common problem, is that of allowing the dough balls to set at room temperature for 30 minutes to an hour, or more, before being taken to the cooler, In this case, the dough balls are actively fermenting when they go to the cooler. As a result, they have become much less dense (more airy/gassy) and are better insulators than a just-mixed, fresh dough. So instead of cooling down uniformly, they end up blowing during the night. The common response to this is not to take the dough directly to the cooler, as it should be, but instead to reduce the yeast level to some point where the dough doesn’t blow.
The down side to this approach is that the yeast level is now so low that the dough doesn’t rise properly when it is finally taken to the oven for baking. So, what is the right thing to do? Don’t let the dough set out for more than about 10-minutes after it has been scaled and balled. This will ensure that the dough hasn’t yet started to ferment, and it is sufficient dense to allow for the efficient removal of heat from the dough balls within a reasonable time. Like I said, physics 101, heat is conducted better through a more dense material than through a less dense material.
The next thing to consider is cross stacking of the dough boxes in the cooler. Cross stacking is building the stack of dough boxes in the cooler with each box perpendicular to the box under it. This leaves the two ends of the box open from which warm air and humidity can freely escape from the dough balls. If the dough boxes are not cross stacked, but rather vertically stacked with each box completely sealed closed, the heat coming from the dough balls will be trapped within the box along with the humidity from the dough balls. This keeps the dough warm, allowing it to continue fermenting until it finally blows.
Yet another important step in dough management that is commonly missed is that of down stacking the dough boxes. This is where the top box on the cross stack is removed and placed to the bottom of the new stack being assembled. This allows for the warmer dough at the top of the stack to be exposed to the colder temperature at the bottom of the stack, (remember, heat rises, so the temperature is slightly warmer at the top of the stack in the cooler than at the bottom of the stack) This further aids in more consistent cooling of the dough.
The length of time that the dough should be allowed to remain in a cross stacked manner will vary to some extent depending upon the weight of the dough balls contained in the boxes. We have found that if the dough ball weights are above 12-ounces, the cross-stacked time should be 2-hours. If the dough ball weight is 12-ounces or less, 90-minutes cross stack time is sufficient. As always though, experiment al little to see what works best for you, with your dough, in your shop. Just strive to be consistent with whatever time you find works best for you.
Following these basic steps will provide dough that will last for up to three days in the cooler. But what if you want dough to last longer than three days? This is very easily accomplished by adjusting the finished dough temperature of the mixed dough. If we target, and achieve a lower temperature, than the normal temperature range of 80 to 85F, and still maintain the same dough management procedure, then the rate of dough fermentation will be effectively slowed, allowing us to hold the dough longer in the cooler, but remember, the dough will keep longer in the cooler, but it will not be ready to use as soon either..
For example; if we drop the finished dough temperature to the 70 to 75F range, the dough will keep for up to five days in the cooler, but it will not be ready to use until the third day after mixing. Your use window will still be three days, but in this case it will be days 3, 4, and 5 rather than days 1, 2, and three as it would be with a finished dough temperature in the 80 to 85F range. Why would you want dough that could only be used on days 3, 4, and 5 after mixing? This is a great way to provide dough from a commissary store to satellite stores as it allows you to develop a two-day dough inventory at the commissary, ship dough to the stores on the night of the second day, so they will have dough to use over the next three days (days 3, 4, and 5).
The last part of effective dough management is to condition the dough for forming into dough skins. To do this, remove a projected two to three hour inventory of dough from the cooler, leaving it sealed in the dough boxes, allow the dough to temper at room temperature for 60 to 90-minutes, or until the dough forms well by whatever forming method you have opted to use, then begin forming the dough. The dough will remain in good condition for forming up to three hours after you begin the forming process. Any dough that will not be needed within this period of time can be pre-formed and placed onto screen pans and stored in a wire tree rack in the cooler. Be sure to cover the rack of dough to prevent excessive drying of the formed dough skins. The dough can then be used when needed later in the day.
As you can see, effective dough management and consistent dough management procedures are a vital aspect in the refrigerated shelf life of our pizza dough, with this in place, you can easily keep your dough in the cooler for anything from one day through 5 or more days. The trick is, you have to do your part to make it work. .
Related
One aspect of pizza dough production that just doesn’t go away is that of flavored or herb infused dough. A number of years ago, several of the big box chains offered herb-flavored doughs. Then a lot of the independents got into the act, too. The trend waxed and waned over the years, but this time it appears to have come with some baggage –– today, herb and flavored doughs have captured the attention of industrial suppliers who want to make the use of various herbs and flavoring materials easier and more flavorful than ever before. If successful, flavored doughs may take on a whole new personality and level of acceptance in the months to come.
When making flavored doughs we must keep in mind that both garlic and onion need to be used in moderation as they can soften or weaken the dough. It is suggested that the combined level for both of these ingredients not exceed 0.15 percent of the total flour weight in the dough. To find what this weight should be, use your calculator and enter the flour weight –– preferably in ounces –– and then press “x” followed by 0.15. Next, press the “%” key and read the answer in the display window. Remember, it will be expressed in the same weight measures that the flour was given in. For example, if you are using
25 pounds of flour, the calculation would look like this: 25 x 16 = 400-ounces of flour; 400 x 0.15 press the “%” key and read 0.6 ounces of combined onion and garlic powder. If a level greater than this is added, you will need to make adjustments to the way you handle and manage your dough to accommodate the increased softness and weakness. If you are already using an L-cysteine, or dead yeast-based dough softener, you should be able to replace all or a portion of it with the onion, and/or garlic powder, thus getting the flavor and dough softening all at the same time and (possibly saving you a few pennies in the process).
No such precautions need to be taken with any of the other ingredients commonly used to flavor the dough/crust such as oregano, basil, pepper, sun-dried tomato, Parmesan cheese, Romano cheese, olives, rosemary, red and green peppers, etc. Sun-dried tomato is the only one of these that comes to mind as needing any special handling or treatment prior to addition to the dough. These need to be presoaked in oil (preferably olive oil) for several hours or overnight. Failure to do so will result in the tomatoes having all of the textural properties of little pieces of leather in the dough. Any of the other herbs can be added just as they are. They will hydrate from the moisture in the dough and give off a wonderful flavor and aroma as a result of the baking process. All of those little pieces of red and green will also provide an interesting and somewhat rustic appearance to the dough that compliments its unique flavor.
There is another side to flavoring of doughs that we don’t hear about, or even see very often, but deserves mention. That is the use of traditional flavoring materials such as cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla or even butter or butter flavorings. Cinnamon is the one flavoring material that takes consideration because it can dramatically slow down or even stop the yeast activity when added directly to the dough. This is the reason why we see such things as cinnamon swirl bagels, and cinnamon swirl bread. In both of these cases, the cinnamon is added to the dough as opposed to being incorporated into it. This greatly nullifies the adverse effect of the cinnamon on the yeast. In a pizza dough we can blend the cinnamon with a butter flavored oil or plain salad oil and add it to the dough during the last 30-seconds of the mixing time. This will allow the cinnamon paste to be swirled through the dough, creating a cinnamon swirl crust that might be just the ticket for making a dessert pizza. Or, you might find that blending the cinnamon into a quantity of melted butter to make a thin paste consistency can be easily spread onto a regular dough skin and then topped with pieces of fresh fruit, or drained fruit cocktail.
On an even easier note you can simply take one of your regular thin- crust dough skins and brush it with water, then sprinkle on a combination of cinnamon and sugar (16-ounces of granulated sugar and 1½ to 2 ounces of cinnamon). Dock the dough well and bake until it is set and just begins to brown. Cut the baked crust into strips 1 to 1½-inches wide and about 3 inches long and serve with a simple powdered sugar-water dipping icing to which a little vanilla flavoring has been added for a very fast and easy dessert offering.
While we’re on the topic of dough for dessert pizza, the addition of vanilla flavoring to the dough is often overlooked, or in many cases never even heard of. Vanilla or a blended vanilla-butter flavor can be added to the dough to create a unique and rich tasting crust flavor for any of your dessert pizzas. No other dough changes are needed, just portion out the needed amount of flavoring and process the dough in your normal manner. Due to the vast differences in the concentration of vanilla flavors, it is recommended that you experiment with a reputable brand product to find the amount that works best in your specific application.
When using fresh or dried herbs in your dough, begin using them at 10 percent of the flour weight and go up from there to a maximum of about 25 percent. Depending upon the composition of the herb mix that you elect to use, you will probably find that the best flavor, aroma and appearance characteristics are had at around the 15 percent level. If cheese is the only material being added to the dough, the best levels seem to be around 8 to 12 percent of the flour weight. And if cheese is included in an herb blend, you will probably find that an addition level of 15 to 20 percent works well. When fresh herbs such as fresh basil, oregano, onion or garlic are used in the herb blend, it is not uncommon to see the blends being used at levels approaching the 25 percent level. Like everything else though, you will need to experiment to find what works best for you in your specific application.u
Tom Lehmann is a director at the American Institute of Baking in Manhattan, Kansas.
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PHOTOS BY JOSH KEOWN
Why are pizza dough recipes/formulas expressed in percentages rather than in amounts?
The easiest way to express a dough formula is in what is referred to as baker’s percent. The amount of each ingredient is expressed as a percent of the total flour weight used in the dough formulation. This allows for easy checking to make sure all ingredients are in correct balance regardless of batch size, and it also allows you to adjust the batch/dough size up or down while keeping all ingredients in correct balance. To find the correct weight for each ingredient you must first decide how much flour you want to use. The total flour weight is always equal to 100 percent. Here is a typical dough formula in baker’s percent:
Flour: 100 percent
Salt: 1.75 percent
Sugar: 1.5 percent
Instant Dry Yeast: 0.375 percent
Oil: 2 percent Water: 58 percent
Let’s say we want to use 35 pounds of flour. To find the amount of each ingredient, using your handy calculator enter the flour weight X the ingredient percent and press the “%” key, then read the ingredient weight in the display window. Remember, the ingredient weight will be in the same weight units that the flour weight is expressed in. To manipulate the size of your dough, simply plug in the new flour weight and repeat the above calculator entries. It really is that easy.
If you already know the ingredient weights and you want to put the formula into baker’s percent, start out by putting 100 percent next to the flour weight. Flour is always equal to 100 percent. Then divide each ingredient weight by the flour weight and multiply by 100 to get the baker’s percent for each of the ingredients.
Here are a couple of neat things that you can use baker’s percent for:
If you add up all of the percentages, in the example formula above, we get 163.625 percent. Divide this by 100 and you get 1.63625 (call it 1.63). How much dough will this formula make? To answer that question just multiply the flour weight by 1.63. If we are using 35 pounds of flour we will get 1.63 x 35 = 57.05 (call it 57 pounds) of dough. If I were to increase the dough weight to 40 pounds we would get 1.63 x 40 = 65.2 (call it 65 pounds) of dough. u If you have an order for 30 large pizzas tomorrow, and your dough weight for each large pizza is 17½ ounces, how much dough would you need to make just for this order? Here is how you do it:
30 x 17.5-ounces = 525-ounces of dough will be needed. Divide the total dough weight (525 ounces) by 1.63 to find the total flour weight needed to make a dough weighing 525-ounces. 525 divided by 1.63 = 322.08 (call it 321ounces/20 pounds) of flour would be needed to make the dough for this order.
As you can see, baker’s percent can be a pretty handy tool to work with.
Tom Lehmann is a director at the American Institute of Baking in Manhattan, Kansas.
More Articles
PHOTOS BY JOSH KEOWN
Why are pizza dough recipes/formulas expressed in percentages rather than in amounts?
The easiest way to express a dough formula is in what is referred to as baker’s percent. The amount of each ingredient is expressed as a percent of the total flour weight used in the dough formulation. This allows for easy checking to make sure all ingredients are in correct balance regardless of batch size, and it also allows you to adjust the batch/dough size up or down while keeping all ingredients in correct balance. To find the correct weight for each ingredient you must first decide how much flour you want to use. The total flour weight is always equal to 100 percent. Here is a typical dough formula in baker’s percent:
Flour: 100 percent
Salt: 1.75 percent
Sugar: 1.5 percent
Instant Dry Yeast: 0.375 percent
Oil: 2 percent Water: 58 percent
Let’s say we want to use 35 pounds of flour. To find the amount of each ingredient, using your handy calculator enter the flour weight X the ingredient percent and press the “%” key, then read the ingredient weight in the display window. Remember, the ingredient weight will be in the same weight units that the flour weight is expressed in. To manipulate the size of your dough, simply plug in the new flour weight and repeat the above calculator entries. It really is that easy.
If you already know the ingredient weights and you want to put the formula into baker’s percent, start out by putting 100 percent next to the flour weight. Flour is always equal to 100 percent. Then divide each ingredient weight by the flour weight and multiply by 100 to get the baker’s percent for each of the ingredients.
Here are a couple of neat things that you can use baker’s percent for:
If you add up all of the percentages, in the example formula above, we get 163.625 percent. Divide this by 100 and you get 1.63625 (call it 1.63). How much dough will this formula make? To answer that question just multiply the flour weight by 1.63. If we are using 35 pounds of flour we will get 1.63 x 35 = 57.05 (call it 57 pounds) of dough. If I were to increase the dough weight to 40 pounds we would get 1.63 x 40 = 65.2 (call it 65 pounds) of dough. u If you have an order for 30 large pizzas tomorrow, and your dough weight for each large pizza is 17½ ounces, how much dough would you need to make just for this order? Here is how you do it:
30 x 17.5-ounces = 525-ounces of dough will be needed. Divide the total dough weight (525 ounces) by 1.63 to find the total flour weight needed to make a dough weighing 525-ounces. 525 divided by 1.63 = 322.08 (call it 321ounces/20 pounds) of flour would be needed to make the dough for this order.
As you can see, baker’s percent can be a pretty handy tool to work with.
Tom Lehmann is a director at the American Institute of Baking in Manhattan, Kansas.

What’s happening with America’s largest pizza companies? Who added stores in 2012? Who pushed their sales to record highs? Who dropped off a bit?
Last month, we published our list of the nation’s 100 most successful independent operations. Now, we present to you our yearly listing of America’s 100 largest pizza chains. Check out who’s winning big on pages 56 and 57.

1. Pizza Hut
Plano, TX
The original Pizza Hut store opened in a small building in Wichita, Kansas in 1958. More than 50 years later, Pizza Hut is the largest pizza company with $11.2 billion in annual sales. The company operates more than 13,700 stores in more than 90 countries.
2. Domino’s Pizza
Ann Arbor, MI
Domino’s story began with the opening of its first store in 1960 called “DomiNick’s.” Five years later, the company was renamed Domino’s Pizza, Inc., opening its first franchise location in 1967. Today, Domino’s has nearly 10,000 locations worldwide and $6.9 billion in annual sales.
3. Papa John’s
Louisville, KY
After college, John Schnatter began delivering pizzas out of the back of his father’s tavern, opening his first Papa John’s in 1984. With more than 3,800 locations and nearly $2.6 billion in annual sales, Papa John’s has locations in all 50 states and 29 countries.
4. Little Caesars
Detroit, MI
The first Little Caesars opened its doors in 1959. By 1987, Little Caesars had become a national chain with stores in all 50 states. Today, the carry-out pizza chain who coined the phrase “Pizza, Pizza” for its two-for- one pizza deal, operates 3,500 locations with $1.45 billion.
5. California Pizza Kitchen
Los Angeles, CA
California Pizza Kitchen (CPK) originated in Beverly Hills in 1985, quickly expanding to 30 states and 11 countries. From 2000 to 2011, CPK was a publicly traded company, before being acquired by privately held Golden Gate Capital in 2011. CPK operates 270 locations with annual sales of $715 million.
6. Papa Murphy’s
Vancouver, WA
The take ‘n’ bake concept began in Northern California in the early 1980s and has steadily moved east. Papa Murphy’s is the largest take ‘n’ bake chain with more than 1,300 locations in 40 states. The quick-serve restaurant generates $702 million in annual sales.
To View Top 100 Pizza Companies Click Link Below
Online View Click Here.

Photo by Rick Daugherty
When the New England Patriots and New York Giants faced off in last year’s Super Bowl, it marked the biggest event of the NFL season. But for pizza purveyors, it wasn’t just a big sports day: American appetites for football and food make Super Bowl Sunday a major moneymaker.
Nearly 50 million Americans ordered takeout during the Giants-Patriots Super Bowl; 60 percent of those orders were for pizza, and another 22 percent were for chicken wings. For restaurant owners, it makes sense to market to customers already thinking about calling in for some Super Bowl pizza and wings, right? Not so fast, says Shelly Paioff, an advertising and intellectual property attorney with the New York-based firm Frankfurt Kurnit Klein & Selz PC.
“Official sponsors pay big money to be able to use the names of trademarked events like ‘Super Bowl,’ ” Paioff says. In legal circles, associating your name (or your company’s name) with events or teams without paying sponsorship fees is called ambush marketing. And for official sponsors, as well as trademark owners, it’s a big deal. “When people who haven’t paid for sponsorships begin to use those terms, it leads to erosion of the value of the sponsorship.”
That’s right — the term “Super Bowl” isn’t free to use. For that matter, neither is “March Madness,” “Olympics” or “World Series.” Don’t think about using a professional team name in your advertising either, Paioff says. “Some restaurants may do a ‘congratulations’ ad with their team’s name, thinking that’s okay,” she explains. “But it’s still using the name without permission, and if a trademark owner really wanted to, they could take legal action.”
In the real world, of course, some restaurants use ambush marketing without legal repercussions. While that can be frustrating for competitors who respect sponsorships and copyrights, those businesses are really rolling the legal dice, says Roberta Jacobs-Meadway, partner and intellectual property attorney at the Eckert Seamans law firm in Philadelphia. “The practical issue is whether it is worth the promotional benefit to risk a cease and desist letter or other claim by the rights owner for the event,” Jacobs- Meadway says. “Some rights holders are more aggressive than others.”
One way to navigate the legal minefield is to be less direct about using the event tie-ins. If you want to advertise with the Super Bowl in mind, for example, you could use the term “big game” or “championship,” explains Paioff. “While it is still risky, it’s less risky than directly referencing the event by name.”
Sometimes you can even find trademark trouble where you would never expect it. “Restaurants selling hoagies…have received cease and desist letters from the holder of the SUBWAY marks for using ‘footlong’ to identify sandwiches that are about a foot long, as opposed to six inches,” Jacobs-Meadway says. Awareness of terms, slogans and phrases that other businesses use and promote heavily can help restaurant owners avoid these problems, but “the better practice may be to be aware of what terms are being heavily promoted and to do at least a search of the U.S. Trademark Office database,” she explains.
Of course, trademarks aren’t the only copyright concerns restaurant owners need to keep in mind when developing advertising: music and photography copyright claims are not uncommon. “Simply because a photo or a sound clip is readily available on the Internet does not mean that it is available for use,” Jacobs-Meadway says.
Just going online and picking a photo off a Web site cannot get anyone in legal hot water, but when you’re planning to use it for advertising and other commercial purposes, getting sued can mean a major money hit. Stock photo sites that allow you to download use licenses for a nominal fee, such as i stockphoto.com, are a good option in situations where restaurant owners can’t generate their own art or photography. The images aren’t free, but they’re a whole lot cheaper than a copyright lawsuit, Paioff says. Her one caveat: “If there are people in the images, make sure you get image releases from the stock photo sites.”
If the worst does happen and you wind up in legal trouble thanks to intellectual property disputes, the first thing you should do is take down or otherwise cease the advertising in question. “When you’re in legal trouble, of course, seek your lawyer’s advice,” Paioff says. “But in the meantime, remove the offending advertising.” If you do end up in court, the quick action may help your case… and sometimes just discontinuing use of the trademark or logo may be enough to satisfy the copyright holder. The best idea, however, is to tread carefully in copyright and trademark territory in the first place.
Advertising Safely... Not Blandly
When restaurant owners are looking to make sporting and other big-name events translate into sales, they don’t need to piggyback official terms and logos for effective, targeted ads, says Chais Meyer, a Kearney, Nebraska-based business consultant.
“It’s smarter to advertise to individuals and fans on an emotional level,” Meyer says. So instead of just naming the event, think about the characteristics of the people who are going to be interested in the event. “Once you know the real reasons a sports fan would want to watch a sporting event, the name (of the event) really isn’t important at all.”
Meyer uses the example of “March Madness.” Instead of using that term, which official sponsors pay to use, restaurants might try a different, more personal approach. His suggestion: “March is almost here and basketball lovers of all kinds will be meeting at (restaurant name) every weeknight from now until the end of the month. Feast on great beer and pizza combos for under $10 during the entire month of March! Basketball lovers unite!”
Basketball fans who might have been looking for somewhere to watch games will immediately understand what the ad is referring to, he says. And because the ad creates a sense of community, it can be even more appealing without the well-known term, giving potential customers the sense the marketer “gets” them and their motivations and interests. “Focus on the ‘why we do what we do,’ ” Meyer says. Doing so will help you hone the perfect recipe for spicing up seasonal ads without walking a legal tightrope.
Alyson McNutt English is an award winning freelance writer specializing in home, health, family, and green topics. She is based in Huntsville, Alabama.

Photos by Rick Daugherty
A couple of years ago, an Urbanspoon reviewer wrote that if Oregano’s Pizza Bistro were a movie, it would win an Academy award. The reviewer added: “From the background music to the star line-up of pizzas, sandwiches and pastas, this place has it all.”
Indeed, background music is to a restaurant what a soundtrack is to a movie. “Music is part of the allure. It’s one of the main ingredients in making a great atmosphere,” says Gary Tarr, advertising manager for Oregano’s, which has 12 locations in greater Phoenix, Tucson and Flagstaff.
Just as playing background music evokes benefits for a restaurant, it also brings legal obligations, if that music is copyrighted.
“The theory behind the law is that music, even if it’s just in the background, is an extra appeal that attracts more customers into a business,” says Henry Abromson, a Frederick, Maryland attorney specializing in intellectual property and entertainment law. “The business is profiting from playing the music, so it should send a little money to the people who created the music.”
Songwriters, composers and music publishers can’t track where and how often their creations are playing and then collect the royalties due them. That’s where the performance rights organizations (PROs) come in, such as the American Society of Composers, Authors and Publishers (ASCAP), Broadcast Music, Inc. (BMI) and SESAC.
The PROs track music usage and collect licensing fees for the performance rights to millions of copyrighted works. They use that money to pay royalties to the songwriters, composers and music publishers who are members of the PRO. The purpose of licensing is to give music creators a fair shake, says Vincent Candilora, executive vice president of licensing at ASCAP. “If you want to use their property,” he says, “you have to get permission and pay them something.”
Licensing fee rates vary widely, depending on seating occupancy, how often music is played, whether the music is live or recorded and other factors. For a 100-seat restaurant playing compact discs for background music, ASCAP’s yearly fee would be $326, according to Candilora. “That’s less than a dollar a day,” he says. “A soda costs more than that.”
Penalties for violating copyright are hefty, ranging from $750 to $50,000 per copyrighted work, perhaps more if the court decides the infringement was willful. Still, restaurateurs often question why they must pay licensing fees, Candilora reports. They figure if they bought a CD or downloaded songs on their iPod, those songs are theirs to enjoy. That’s true when playing music for your personal use. But if you play it in your business for customers, it’s considered a music performance, and copyright protection kicks in.
But didn’t those music creators already get paid? Why should you pay for playing their music? That line of thinking stems from misperceptions about how the music world works, Candilora explains. People confuse the recording artist with the songwriter, who may be the same person but often isn’t.
“If I mention a song like ‘The Gambler,’ the first person to come to mind is Kenny Rogers,” Candilora says. “But a guy by the name of Don Schlitiz wrote that song. Getting royalties from his songwriting is how Don puts his kids through school. People think if you have a hit, you’re an instant millionaire, but that’s so far from the truth.”
A songwriter, composer or music publisher can belong to only one PRO. So a restaurant paying ASCAP’s fee gains access to the 8.5 million songs on ASCAP’s list, but not to the 7.5 million songs BMI manages. That’s why restaurants often obtain licenses from multiple PROs.
Exemptions from fees exist for specific situations. A restaurant with less than 3,750 square feet (including storage, kitchen, bathrooms, etc.) pays no royalties for playing radio and television music only. A restaurant exceeding that square footage pays no fees if:
- It plays radios and has no more than six speakers total, with no more than four speakers per room.
- It plays no more than four televisions, each measuring up to 55 inches diagonally, with only one television per room. The limit on speakers is six total and no more than four per room.
Other ways to avoid paying the PROs’ fees include:
- Installing a coin-operated jukebox for customer use. You’ll owe a fee to the Jukebox License Office in New York.
- Playing music with expired copyrights. For music written before 1978, copyright protection lasts for the artist’s life plus 95 years. That shifts to the artist’s life plus 70 years for music written after 1978.
- Subscribing to a background music provider, such as Dynamic Media or Muzak. The latter’s Web site quotes a $40/month rate for its “premium” option, plus one-time costs of $299 for a media player and a $99 activation fee.Otherwise, expect music licensing requirements to apply to your restaurant. Just as you pay a florist for the flowers on your tables, pay the music creator for his or her music. “It’s a cost of doing business,” Candilora says, “and it’s the right thing to do.”
Going Live

Live music is a vital part of the business mix at Mississippi Pizza in Portland, Oregon, which includes a restaurant area, a music room for live performances and a bar/lounge. Double doors separate the three spaces.
“Some people want to come in with their family and not hear live music,” says Philip Stanton, who co-owns the business with wife Stephanie. Those customers can dine in the restaurant area, where only background music plays. But others come specifically to hear live music and end up ordering pizza, too. There are two live shows per night, with no cover charges for 80 percent of the shows.
Stanton pays licensing fees to ASCAP, BMI and SESAC, totaling $4,500 per year. “It’s absolutely worth it,” he says. “The live music brings in people who don’t know this neighborhood and normally wouldn’t come to our restaurant. That generates 60,000 people a year who come here to hear music and now know how to get to our place for a pizza.”
Dianne Molvig is a freelance writer in Madison, Wisconsin.

Photos by Josh Keown
“There may be a hundred different stances and sword positions, but you win with just one,” said undefeated Samurai Miyamoto Musashi in 1643. Mushashi would have been a great pizza guy because he described pan pizza to the letter. Every town, village and territory in the world has their own pan pizza style: Chicago style; Sicilian Sfincione; Detroit Red Top; Tuscan Schiacciata; Old Forge style; French Pissaliadiere; Ligurian Pizza all’ Andrea; Philidelphia’s Tomato Pie; the Abruzzan Pizza Rustica from Renaissance times; stuffed pan pizza and pizza Pugliese. Even the centuries-old Chinese Scallion Pizza is baked in metal and some speculate that it was this idea that Marco Polo brought back to Italy to evolve into…(drumroll please) pan pizza!
For 13 years, I have used the 180 seasoned pizza pans in my small place to bake my own Athens-style pizza. Each pan sees action at least twice every day. During the rushes, they get tossed, slammed, slid, stacked and sometimes knocked over which, I will admit, is not a great way to treat the vehicle that crisps my pizza product (but each pan will again eventually don the high protein cloak of cold-fermented dough that it deserves). My pans have straight sides with a “nesting” indentation halfway up to stack the pans very high without harming the dough. I opted for this feature because I only have 1,200 square feet in my pizzeria.

Unlike pan pizzas on the East Coast, ours are not oiled but are just dusted with corn meal. These pans hold the dough crust vertically for a rustic look as it is docked, proofed, sauced, cheesed and topped before heading into our 475 F conveyor ovens. The pan heats up from 390 to 400 F after seven minutes, pushing the crust temperature to 315 F for a nice browning effect. It isn’t as hot as a wood-fired oven but heats up the 19 ounces of proofed dough nicely!
There are as many pizza pan designs as there are styles. If you are buying more than 50 at once, some companies may discount your order or deliver for free. Always ask (I only use credit cards that offer miles also!)

To find the one best pan pizza for your pizzeria, consider these factors:
- Your comfort zone. Are you and your staff willing to enthusiastically craft new pan pizza styles to generate more revenue?
- Your customer. What are they used to? How far can you stretch their culinary comfort zone? u Your market. Who has the best pan pizza in your area? (Be honest.) How can you beat them? These are very personal considerations for you and your pizzeria, but if you wish to take the leap to pan, let’s first concentrate on where the metal hits the road.
- Steel pans. Old-school steel pans are sometimes found in all their black seasoned beauty in the dark corners of used restaurant stores, these are the undisputed kings of golden crispy pizza pan crusts. The steel is strong (but does not conduct heat as quickly as aluminum) and they have better cook-ability and hold the heat longer. With thicker pizzas and larger pans, they don’t have a middle “skip” zone of un-doneness that aluminum pans have because of bending under heat. Some old pan pizzas were made in tin-plated steel pans, but remember that tin melts at 450 F, so these aren’t good for today’s high-heating ovens. I like the steel pans because some high seasoned sides seem to force a nice heat into the upper cornicione, or crust, of the pizza.
- “Nekkid” steel pans. New “bare” steel pans can be cheaper than coated steel pans, but buyer beware: thicker pizza pans with gauges below 16 are getting harder to find these days. If you are buying online, always ask what gauge the pan is. The lower the steel gauge number, the thicker the pan. These new bare steel pans need to be seasoned, which means you crank up your oven and coat each pan with a thin layer of lard, (really old school) vegetable oil or shortening. These have a low smoke point and you must ventilate your place well while doing this all day long until they turn color and eventually get blackened with carbon. (NOTE: never wash seasoned pans or bake with any liquid on the seasoning. If you absolutely have to wash them, use warm water and a weak soap quickly, then rinse and immediately run through another seasoning session.)
- Aluminum pans. Aluminum transfers heat four times faster than steel but I’ve found from personal experience I get a better golden brown crust in a deck oven from the steel. Because non-coated aluminum heats up fast, there is sometimes a “stickability problem.” Large aluminum pans tend to buckle in one corner under brick oven heat and that can affect cooking also.
- Coated pans. Aluminized steel pans offer both the durability and speed at heating up, while the “Anodized” aluminum pans coated with PSTK or pre-seasoned Tuff-kote improve durability and baking performance. These can either be as an electro-chemical process that converts the outside of the pan to aluminum oxide, or through multiple layers of sealant sprayed on an aluminum base that is absorbed into the pores for a tough, non-stick surface. This pan coating comes under numerous names depending on the company but they are all are twice as expensive as “bare” pans and, as I am finding out, will last forever — 11 years and counting for my pizzeria.
As you can see, many options are available for your perfect pizza pan. I’ve barely touched the surface here and most of my information just comes from personal experience. The best pan information will come from the company itself. If you are looking to open a new pizzeria, consider having multiple styles of pizza and don’t forget the pan.
In the next issue, I will delve into the differences in pan pizza dough styles and how the two most important aspects are achieved with the marriage between dough and pan: taste and texture.u
John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio. He is also a speaker at International Pizza Expo and a member of the World Pizza Champions.
Some people have accused me of making my dough formulas too complex and difficult to make because I insist upon giving the ingredient amounts in percentages. Actually, they're given in what is called "baker’s percent". I must admit, I'm guilty as charged, but before you condemn me, allow me to plead my case for using baker’s percent.
With baker’s percent, all ingredient amounts are expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the wheat flour contained in the formula/recipe, and the total flour weight is always given as 100 percent. For example, if a dough formula contains both white (pizza flour) and a whole-wheat flour, the total weight of the two flours will equal the total flour weight. Or, if a formula contains vital wheat gluten, the gluten weight will be added to the weight of the flour to arrive at the total flour weight. Do not include any other types of flour, such as soy flour, or corn flour, in the total flour weight.
Now for the fun part. Let’s say we want to determine the ingredient amounts to use for the following dough formula:
Flour 100 percent
Salt 1.75 percent
Sugar 2 percent
Olive oil 3 percent
Instant dry yeast 0.35 percent
Water 60 percent
The first thing to do is to ask yourself how much flour do I want to use? Or better put, how much flour will my mixer handle? Let’s say we have a mixer than can safely mix doughs based on up to 50-pounds of flour in the mixer. So we elect to use 50 pounds of flour, which is equal to 100 percent. Now we will turn to our handy calculator for a little assistance. To determine the amount of salt to use, press in 50 X 1.75, and then press the “percent” key. You will be able to read the amount of salt to add in the display window. In this case it will be 0.875 pounds of salt. If you need to convert this to ounces, just multiply it by 16 (the number of ounces in a pound) 0.875 X 16 = 14 ounces.
For the next ingredient, sugar at 2 percent will look like this: 50 X 2, press the percent key, and you’ll see the answer is 1 pound of sugar. Olive oil at 3 percent will be 50 X 3, then press the percent key and you’ll have 1.5 pounds of olive oil. Instant dry yeast at 0.35 percent will be 50 X 0.35, then press the percent key and you’ll have 0.175 pounds of instant dry yeast (0.175 X 16 = 2.8-ounces). Water at 60 percent will be 50 X 60, then press the percent key. You’ll have 30 pounds of water.
If you want to express a formula in baker's percent. All you need to do is divide the weight of each ingredient by the total weight of the flour and multiply by 100. Let me show you an example of how it's done. Here is a typical dough formula for a honey-wheat pizza dough:
35 pounds White flour
15 pounds Whole-wheat flour
14 ounces Salt
3 pounds Honey
2 pounds Butter flavored oil
4 ounces Instant dry yeast
30 pounds Water
Remember, we're going to divide the weight of each ingredient by the total weight of the wheat flour(s) and multiply by 100. In this formula the total weight of the wheat flour is 50 pounds, but it is comprised of both white and whole-wheat flour and we must show the proportions of each as a percent.
• White flour (35 pounds) divided by 50 (total flour weight) = 0.7 X 100 = 70 percent
• Whole-wheat flour (15pounds) divided by 50 (total flour weight) = 0.3 X 100 = 30 percent
• Salt (14 ounces). In this case you should show the weight as a decimal part of a pound (14 divided by 16 = 0.875 pound) 0.875 divided by 50 = 0.175 X 100 = 1.75 percent;
• Honey (3-pounds) divided by 50 = 0.006 X 100 = 6 percent;
• Butter flavored oil (2 pounds) divided by 50 = 0.004 X 100 = 4 percent
• Instant dry yeast (4 ounces). Here again we must change ounces to a decimal part of a pound (4 divided by 16 = 0.25-pound) 0.25 divided by 50 = 0.005 X100 = 0.5 percent
• Water (30-pounds) divided by 50 = 0.6 X 100 = 60 percent.
As you can see, baker’s percent will only work with weight measures, it will not work with volumetric measures (cups, teaspoons, tablespoons, etc.). There are some really great advantages to working with your formulas in baker's percent. For instance, you can tell, at a glance, if the formula is in proper balance (correct proportions), you can also easily increase or decrease the size of the dough without the need to "fiddle" with ingredient amounts, and you can easily size your dough to fit any mixer capacity.
If your dough is presently given in volumetric measures, it doesn't take too much to convert it to baker’s percent, but you will need to have a good scale available for weighing your ingredients. Begin by portioning out each ingredient as you normally do, but put each ingredient into its own separate container. When all of the ingredients have been portioned, weigh each container with the ingredient, then empty the ingredient into the mixing bowl and weigh the empty container. Subtract the "tare" weight of the container form the ingredient weight for the true ingredient weight. Do this for each ingredient that you portioned out. Now prepare a dough from the portioned ingredients and ask yourself if this is "my normal " dough. If the answer is yes, repeat the portioning and weighing procedure for two more doughs. If each one produces your normal dough take — the average weight for the three weights of each ingredient (add up each of the three weights and divide by three) — you will now have your formula shown with the correct ingredient weights and all that is left to do is to write down 100 percent next to the flour weight (remember flour is always 100 percent). Then divide the weight of each ingredient by the weight of the flour and multiply by 100. Do this for each of the ingredients and you have your formula in baker’s percent and you can manipulate it up or down in size without making any other changes to the ingredients.
Now that you have heard my side of the story, and you now know how to work a formula given in baker’s percent and understand the advantages of doing so, I trust that you will go easy on me the next time you see a formula given in baker’s percent.

Employee theft is a problem for any business owner. Some statistics indicate that employee theft causes thousands of businesses each year to go under. Here, I’d like to offer Pizza Today readers a copy of a very important document I used at my pizzeria: my Loss Prevention Statement.
The following Statement of Loss Prevention Responsibilities must be read and signed by each employee, and a copy of the signed memo submitted to the General Manager.
The single most important asset of Big Dave’s Pizza & Subs is its people. It is our responsibility to protect this valued asset by providing understanding, direction, and support for high standards of business conduct.
All of Big Dave’s Pizza & Sub’s assets — merchandise, property, information, recipes, services, cash and people — are intended to be used in a manner that contributes to sales, profits and customer satisfaction. Using, diverting, damaging, or taking a company asset for personal use or benefit is an abuse of the business’ intended use of that asset.
The purpose of this Statement of Loss Prevention Responsibilities is to help Big Dave’s Pizza & Subs people make correct decisions and judgments regarding activities that are considered workplace abuse. This statement is a company policy, as well as a guideline to help each employee define workplace abuse in their area of responsibility. The list of examples is not all-inclusive. Each employee should add to it from his or her understanding of workplace abuse. Any violation of this contract is grounds for immediate termination and prosecution.
Definition of WORKPLACE ABUSE:
Workplace abuse is any illegal, dishonest, irresponsible, or counterproductive act that causes loss or harm to a company, its employees, or customers.
Examples of WORKPLACE ABUSE:
1. Unauthorized taking or use of company merchandise, cash, materials, equipment, or services.
2. Taking or damaging a co-worker’s property.
3. Intentional damaging of company inventory or other property.
4. Assaulting or harassing customers, suppliers, or co-workers.
5. Stealing from or cheating a customer.
6. Giving unauthorized discounts or buying merchandise at discount for a person not authorized to receive a discount.
7. Using, possessing, selling, buying or being under the influence of illegal drugs or alcohol on company premises or during work hours.
8. Borrowing or using company property, vehicles, or tools without proper authorization.
9. Unauthorized acceptance or solicitation of gifts from suppliers.
10.Operating or having a major investment or relationship in a business that competes with Big Dave’s Pizza & Subs.
11. Falsifying payroll time records, or other company records.
12. Unauthorized use or dissemination of company proprietary information.
13. Intentionally allowing merchandise to leave the physical control of the company premises without proper paperwork or financial transaction.
14. Failure to report known workplace abuse.
15. Gambling, or any other illegal activity on company time or on company property.
16. Rudeness to a customer.
17. Failing to strictly adhere to all traffic laws. Reporting any traffic stops to manager immediately.
I have read the above Statement of Loss Prevention Responsibilities and I understand my role in loss prevention and security at Big Dave’s Pizza & Subs.
[x] (Employee’s Signature)
________________________ ____-____-________
Printed Name & SS#
_____
Date
___________________
[ x ] witnessed
This document is an important first step to protecting your business. Put its policies in force today.
We are in a cash business. We have cash everywhere. In the cash drawers, delivery wallets, petty cash box, night deposit and office. I wouldn’t begin to estimate how much cash has been stolen from me. The amount would probably make me ill. I can document close to a hundred thousand dollars. It’s been said that 25 percent of your employees wouldn’t take anything from you. 50 percent will occasionally take something if the chances of getting caught and prosecuted are slim. The remaining 25 percent are constantly figuring out ways to rip you off.
The National Restaurant Association attributes 30 percent of all restaurant failures to employee theft. According to them, restaurants lose more than $9 billion dollars a year to theft.
There are many reasons employees steal: they have a psychological disorder or think you’re rich or need money urgently, etc. They don’t just take cash, but will steal food, inventory, trade secrets, personal possessions, equipment and supplies and database information.
Their methods are diverse as well. They’ll under-ring orders and pocket cash or under report delivery sales. Petty cash is an easy target. They’ll give away unauthorized comps to their friends or intentionally mess up an order. They’ll leave you and take your recipes or mailing lists to competitors.
By far, cash is the primary target. In today’s tough economy even saints can be tempted. Technology has again helped by developing an online behavior trait test for all new applicants. In 30 seconds after a quick quiz a manager can get a numeric score on an applicant and see what their ethic / honesty number is. Here are some successful tactics I used to minimize cash theft.
If I suspect that a cash drawer is being pilfered, I’ll do two things. First I’ll over load the starting cash by $20 or so. When we reconcile the drawer to the register reading, it had better be twenty bucks over. Then I’ll do surprise drawer swaps in mid-rush. The under-ringers keep counters in the drawer. They ring up $10 and charge the customer $20. They quite often keep track of how much the till is over by placing coins in an unused slot in the drawer. Before the shift is over they pick the time to pull the under ringed cash and pocket it. A surprise random drawer switch and count will often show the overages. Overages are more troublesome to me than shortages.
For many years anyone could ring up sales at my pizzeria. Since we didn’t assign and hold responsible one person on a drawer, shortages were quite common. If you assign a drawer to one person, they become solely responsible for the drawer balancing. Things that are measured always improve. If the cashier can’t make the drawer balance within one percent of perfect on three occasions, then they won’t be allowed to touch any more money. I know this will slow down your system. If your bank and every major retail operation in the country can do it, tell me again why you can’t. You may need to bring in one more person for 10 hours a week to accomplish this. Whenever you allow a free-for-all in the cash drawers you might as well put up a sign that says “Take all you need. Just leave me a little bit to pay the bills with.”
Petty cash and night deposits are tempting targets for the criminal element. Again, accountability is key. Only the manager has the key for petty cash and two people count the deposit and sign the deposit slip at closing. I’m a much stronger believer in using technology as a deterrent. CCTV (closed circuit television) has been the difference between success and failure in many operations. New technologies will allow owners and managers to watch the operations remotely on their computers from anywhere in the world. I like a camera over the cash register, one over the make line and one at the front and back doors. At one time I resisted CCTV because of privacy issues, but I made a new decision after helping catch thieves that had come close to bankrupting several of my clients. When a cash drawer or driver is being balanced you never tell them how much they owe. They count it and you see how close to perfect they are. If you tell them in advance they will force the number every time.
Even more valuable than your cash is your mailing list.
This data is the lifeblood of your restaurant. It usually contains every customer’s name, address, phone numbers; email addresses, lifetime and period purchases. How much would you be willing to pay for this data from your most hated competitor? If you could put your hands on this info you could target market to these families over and over until they tried your pizza. I have legally obtained this info from my competitors because they were sloppy. It cost them dearly. Password protect your lifeblood — otherwise disgruntled or low ethical employees could download your info and sell it.
Employee theft with delivery drivers has almost taken down several chains. Before POS systems were customized for pizzerias it was relatively easy to steal big money every week. POS systems made this challenge a lot more difficult but certainly not impossible.
Coupons are generally deducted at the time the drivers settle up. They can cut and pass off coupons for legitimate discounts and often do. My stance was whatever was quoted to the customer at time of order was collected. Once in a great while a customer produces a coupon they forgot to mention when they ordered. Drivers may not honor them at the door. The customer must call the store manager and get the discount approved on their home phone. The coupon shuffle really drops off after you implement this. Assigning deliveries to another is another way unscrupulous drivers penalize their fellow workers and personally profit. I think the fingerprint recognition at terminals is the only way to go. Passwords are shouted across the store but fingerprints can’t be altered. I made it a practice to call back delivery customers and survey them on meal quality and service. I asked open-ended questions and asked them to give us a number between 1-10 based on their experience and then I asked them why. Great information is gathered this way.
To Catch a Thief – Delivery
• Have a Zero tolerance policy on unpaid deliveries
• Coupon Shuffle
• Call back customers and survey them
• No co-mingling of cash, (drivers must keep personal and company money separate at all times)
• No assigning deliveries to others
• Watch for Un-authorized discounts
Shhh! It’s a Secret.
Equally important as your cash, perhaps more so, are your trade secrets. They should be protected by confidentially and non-compete agreements. In the old days it was a visit from a bone breaker if you forgot. Now you will need to stay above the law and sue in civil court. I’ve been an expert witness 3 times and the court has always found for my clients. Protect all of your sensitive date and lock it up. Employees aren’t managers and seldom need to know all of the details.

I have opened seven restaurants for myself and at least 30 more for clients in my career. The last one to open was last August in Ohio. I’ve designed floor plans for stores smaller than my garage (900) square feet all the way up to a couple of giant family entertainment places pushing 40,000 square feet. The smallest location I designed was 450 square feet in the food court of one of the busiest malls in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. When the rent is high and the space available is tight, you have to get creative and utilize every inch of available space.
In this report, I’m going to attempt to detail a few of the things you’ll need to keep in mind if you’re opening a pizzeria. I’ll work under the assumption that you’re opening in a location that is approximately 24 x 55 feet (or 1,320) square feet. This operation is a closed up shoe store. It sits in the middle of a strip-mall with generous parking and a back door that leads to an alley. The neighbors are a video rental store, beauty salon, jewelry store and an insurance office. The only operation that is open after 5:00 pm is the video store. This allows you much greater parking in the evening when you’ll need it. Retail rental space and foodservice space are as different as night and day. Retail requirements are basically floors, walls and ceiling, plus one restroom, a small HVAC and plumbing requirements. Foodservice establishments have much higher mandated requirements.
The build out and finished space will be inspected by the local building authority as well as the health department. Many times the fire department and other zoning and business offices will get their two cents in prior to your opening. Your new operation will need to have heavy-duty electrical service. I look for at least 300 amps. We’ll need at least a 2-inch gas line to supply the HVAC and pizza oven with enough volume and pressure to operate at full capacity. Your local building department will probably allow one unisex restroom for your employees because you don’t offer on premises dining. It will probably have to be handicap accessible. Your entrance and back door will also have to comply with ADA, meaning at least three-foot-wide doors. This is a good thing, because every piece of commercial food service equipment is designed to fit through a 36” door. Your plumbing requirements will often state that a huge water heater be installed for pot, pan and smallwares washing. Even though you don’t offer dine in and have zero fried food you’ll most likely be forced into a grease trap (interceptor} between your sink and the city sewer.
I’ve seen small (30 gallon) to large (1000 gallon) required sizes. These vary from state to state and inspector to inspector. Delco pizzerias create almost zero grease but are lumped into the restaurant category. Once the restroom size and configuration is established you’ll also need to buy a 3-compartment sink. These sinks are made from stainless steel and usually have drain boards at either end. Many health department rules state that the sink compartment size must be large enough to place the largest piece of equipment you’ll need to wash in it. This is the mixing bowl from a 60-quart mixer. This rule is often overlooked and a regular size sink with a sprayer will be accepted. Next we’ll need at least one hand-washing sink in the food prep area, if not two. Many locals also require a vegetable-washing sink.
If you opt for selling soft drinks from a fountain you’ll need a cold water line and a floor drain. Your kitchen and prep area would certainly be a great place for another floor drain for floor mopping and scrubbing. While were talking about floors think industrial strength, smooth, non-porous, easily cleanable, non-slip surfaces. Your plumber will most likely have to saw out concrete to place your grease trap, water lines and underground drains. If you have a wooden floor with a basement or crawlspace this is an easier task.
Your pizza oven location will need to be established so the gas pipe can be routed (usually overhead). Plumbers usually install HVAC systems. The air conditioning that the bookstore had will not cool your kitchen once the oven fires up. Most places add an additional rooftop unit of 5 to 10 tons depending on how hot and humid it gets in the summer. Next up on the list is your exhaust fan and hood. This is referred to as ventilation and has different requirements from state to state. If you are required to install a system with make up air your basic Ventilation costs will triple.
For every square foot of air drawn out of the building, that amount — plus extra fresh air — must be pulled in and often times tempered (warmed or cooled to 70 degrees) to pass inspection. These roof top units are energy hogs, but help keep flying insects, dust and dirt outside. When you enter a building with make up air, you feel a little breeze of air across your face when you first open the door. As you can see the requirements for foodservice establishments is much higher than a typical retail space.
When you are making your short list of possible locations look for the one that will require the least amount of mechanical rehabbing. Closed down restaurants are often a good deal because they have the basis HVAC, plumbing and electrical requirements in place. Be aware that some locations for some reason are perceived as losers. If there is a pattern of defunct restaurants, beware and move on. You will probably need to hire an architect and/or engineer to draw blueprints and specification sheets. These prints are often necessary to obtain a building permit. Most agencies will specify a set of sealed working prints before remodeling is started. The engineer seals the prints with a raised embossed seal much like a notary. When looking for an engineer, seek out one with restaurant experience. They will understand the flow of people and product and allow for subtle things like where the trashcans are located. Experience really pays off here.

There’s nothing sexy about food safety. But running a professional kitchen with proper food-safety protocols in place is the most important aspect of an operation. Not only can a poor health inspection be costly through fines, it can also devastate the restaurant’s reputation. And with a branding of unsafe practices, an operation has a difficult, some would say impossible, task of regaining a community’s trust and business.
So, here then, is a primer on food safety.
Getting Ready for Inspection
- Be ready for an examination at any time. To do this, managers should conduct weekly internal inspections. Follow the protocols that health inspectors use, looking at areas both outside the premises and in.
- Share the results of the inspection with kitchen staff. Those weekly meetings allow the operation to stay on top of any infractions and also keep safety issues top-of-mind with employees. Crucial areas that require vigilance from kitchen staff are food temperature, awareness of food types to avoid cross contamination and hand washing.
- Operators must follow municipal regulations on certification. They should ensure that some, if not all, staff attend food-safety training programs and become certified.
How to Handle the Inspection
- Managers should never refuse an inspection — no matter how inconvenient the timing. If an inspector has to return with a warrant, the inspection will most likely be a lot more thorough.
- A staff member should accompany the inspector and take notes on areas inspected and violations found. This illustrates camaraderie to the inspector, and allows an on-the-spot fix of smaller infractions.
- Once the inspection is over, the restaurant employee should ask for the results to be shared with the rest of the staff, so improvements can begin immediately.
What to Do If Cited
- Small problems should be fixed during the inspection to illustrate good faith.
- If violations cited need clarifying, staff should respectfully ask the inspector to explain his/her findings.
- If the operator disagrees with the findings, he/she should appeal the decision through the local health department — disagreeing with the inspector on site is not a good idea.
Food-Safety Training
Many training programs are available, both online and in classrooms. ServSafe is a food-safety program that is widely recognized by local, state and federal health departments, and is administered by the National Restaurant Association’s Educational Foundation. Programs such as these award food-safety certification, and are crucial to any operation. Material covered in these courses include:
- Food-safety hazards, including contaminants, allergens and foodborne illness.
- Flow-of-food hazards that covers issues such as cross-contamination; time and temperature control; safe receiving; food storage; preparation and serving; and cooling and reheating.
- Sanitation, including personal hygiene and how food handlers can contaminate foods.
- Pest control, including identifying pests and using and storing pesticides.
Many operators only certify upper-level management. But food-safety practices are so important, others certify all members of the kitchen staff.
7 Principles of HACCP
- Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points is a preventive government protocol. A strict adherence to the principles of HACCP ensures safe food-handling practices. For more information, go to the USDA’s site, http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~lrd/haccp.html
- Hazard Analysis. Hazards are identified as biological, such as a microbe; chemical, such as a toxin; or physical, such as ground glass or metal fragments.
- Critical control point identification. Points are markers in a food’s production — from its raw state through processing and shipping to consumption.
- Establishment of critical limits. Preventive measures are set up with critical limits for each control point, such as minimum cooking temperature and time needed to eliminate harmful microbes.
- Monitoring procedures. Critical control points need to be monitored. For instance, protocols need to be set in place for how long and by whom cooking time and temperature is monitored.
- Corrective actions. When monitoring shows that a critical limit has not been met, there should be corrective actions in place to deal with the issue.
- Record Keeping. Establish procedures to ensure that the system is functioning correctly.
- Verification procedures. Document your HACCP system with spot-on record keeping, such as records of hazards and their control methods.
Resources
Use these to make sure your restaurant is covered
• HACCP Course Training Schedule for 2008http://www.haccpalliance.org/alliance/haccpcalendar.html
• National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation
http://www.nraef.org/ifsc/ifsc_about.asp
• ServSafe Food Safety Certification
http://www.servsafe.com/help/certification/foodsafety/<
• State Restaurant Association Map
http://www.servsafe.com/sra/state_rest_associate.aspx

Another good reason to attend International Pizza Expo® is this: as an independent pizzeria owner, you may be under pressure and worried about how you’re going to survive in a less than favorable economy. The fact is, you may need to slow down in order to speed up your business. You may need to do some creative thinking to come up with some innovative ideas to boost your business. Attending Pizza Expo® can stimulate that creativity and provide the momentum you need to move your business forward.
Below are a few tips that will help you get the most out of your trade show experience:
- Time is at a premium. Plan in advance; pre-register to save time and money. Schedule appointments with people you want to meet with. Make a list of what you want to learn and see while at Expo. Review what’s being offered at the pre-show workshops, as well as the general program to determine which ones would have the greatest impact on you and your business.
- Take charge! You may want to arrange a meeting with other pizzeria operators and suppliers to see what they are doing and what they see happening in the future. Or better yet, just make plans to attend the Beer & Bull® Idea Exchange.
- Take time to walk the show thoroughly and completely, so you’ll get the biggest bang for the buck. Jot down the products, companies and booth numbers that grab your interest in a small note pad. Take as many notes as possible.
- Knowledge is Pizza Power. Gather as much information as you can while at the show. Find out what products, services and techniques are available to you to improve your product, productivity and profitability.
- Talk to industry consultants and experts to find out what they’re thinking and doing. What are the new trends?
- Last but not least, are you looking to make purchases while at the show? The fact of the matter is that no one wants to take their equipment and products back to the warehouse. Take advantage of the great show specials and discounts being offered by our exhibiting partners. You won’t have this opportunity again for another year.
After the show, ask yourself these questions:
- What is the competition doing and how does your pizzeria compare?
- Can you leverage vendor/supplier expertise?
- Is there an opportunity to expand your menu?
- What can you do differently to outshine and outperform your competition?
- Finally, write down what you learned at the show and rethink or analyze your business strategy and philosophy. How can you grow your pizzeria? What great idea(s) can you implement to achieve your goals?
There will always be winners and losers, but only those pizzeria owners and operators that arm themselves with industry knowledge and are willing to take action towards positive change will have the ability to position their business for future growth and success. If you want to increase your ability to compete and win, you should make plans now to attend International Pizza Expo®. It’s the ideal trade show to obtain the knowledge that you need to help you strategize, improve operations and make the right decisions for you to compete and win.
Save time and money by pre-registering now at www.PizzaExpo.com.
We Mean Business!

The checklist is long and daunting. You know you want to open a new pizzeria, but you don’t know where to begin. And that’s after you’ve already done it once or twice before, let alone if you’re a first-timer.
So, where do you begin? With a plan of action and a realistic attitude, that’s where. For starters, it’s important to come to grip with a few indisputable facts: you’re going to have to do a ton of research; there will be mountains of paperwork; the project will cost much more than you anticipate and will take longer to complete than you estimate.
Sound frustrating? Wait until you actually get started. Your anxiety levels will instantly spike by 200 percent. But while the cost of pizzeria ownership is high mentally and physically, it can be rewarding if you are able to offset your investment risk with good product, service and marketing. But we’re getting way ahead of ourselves here. There’s so much to do before you can open. And none of the tasks that must be completed en route to opening a new pizzeria is more important than getting the funding necessary to get the project up and running.
Assuming you know the type of pizzeria you plan to open, the first step is to figure out how much capital you’ll need. That amount will vary widely depending upon your location and the type of service you’ll offer (full dining, delivery/carryout, take-and-bake, etc). A small, independent delco unit in a small Midwestern town may get started for under $100,000. A 250-seat, full-dining parlor in a large city could exceed $2 million. You can figure out roughly how much it will take to get started by talking to realtors, brokers, equipment dealers, food vendors and consultants. Once you know how much money you’ll need, it’s time to figure out where to get it. Some options include:
• Investors
Pros: Partnering with investors won’t tie up all of your capital, and it may be the only solution if you lack the necessary investment funds.
Cons: While sweat equity is viable, money talks. Most investors won’t back a project unless the owner puts down 10 to 25 percent of his or her own money. It shows you have a stake in it.
Make sure you have a really good partnership agreement, because most partnerships are based on monetary contributions. Whoever puts up most of the money generally has the most say. You will have to answer to your investors if things don’t pan out, and they could direct you as to how they want you to run your business — or ultimately buy you out of the whole affair.
• Family and Friends
Pros: These are the people who believe in you and may provide funds at little or no interest.
Cons: You’ll lose friends and the support of family members quickly if you lose their money. Always make sure that whatever you borrow can be given comfortably. Explain to them that it is a gamble and that they may never see anything from the money. Personal loans are tricky, so avoid them if you can.
• Venture Capitalists
Pros: This option provides a quick infusion of capital. These people are generally in and out of your business. Or, if you’re looking to grow into a small chain, they would likely be a source for capitalizing additional units once you have established yourself.
Cons: Venture capitalists look for a quick return on investment of two or three years, and they usually invest in someone with a proven track record.
• Small Business Administration
Pros: The SBA has multiple programs available for small business owners. If you are a woman or a minority additional programs are likely available to you.
Cons: Your business plan must be detailed and solid (is this really a con, come to think of it? Shouldn’t it be solid anyway?). The SBA wants to see previous business ownership and employment in the industry. There is a mountain of paperwork to wade through during the entire loan term. Most importantly, SBA money is not cheap. The interest rate often is higher than on conventional loans. That said, the SBA also offers a degree of protection should you find yourself in trouble.
• Banks
Pros: Loan rates are lower and commercial lines of credit are useful.
Cons: Conventional bank loans are next to impossible to get for a first-time venture. Usually, they simply won’t fund high-risk investments like restaurants.
Your access to capital and investors will depend largely upon your business plan. As previously mentioned, you’ll want it to be as detailed and accurate as possible. It’s important be realistic with your numbers (don’t expect $1 million in sales in your first year or a 20 percent profit margin). In order to arrive at your key figures, it’s going to take a lot of research. You’ll have to eye a site for your location and know its demographics inside and out. What trends are influencing the area? Is the population growing or shrinking? Is the neighborhood in which you’ll do business safe? How many other restaurants and pizzerias are in the trade area? Is there a good business base for catering or to provide a lunch rush? What is the traffic count and pattern like? Is there much foot traffic during the day? What about at night? How many homes are in the trade area? What’s the average age of the area’s population? What’s the average income?
You’ll also need to understand the city’s codes and regulations. If there’s a sidewalk, can you encroach on it for outdoor seating? Are there restrictions on operating hours? Restrictions on signage? How does your concept fit in with the city’s general plan (and every city has one)?
Your chosen source for funding will scrutinize your business plan from every angle and will smell a rat if your numbers aren’t realistic and feasible. So be conservative when it comes to estimating profit. Your best bet would be to project a seven percent profit, but you may be wise to offer three business plans. A conservative one would call for five percent profit and an aggressive one would plan for 10 percent profit. Show your prospective lender all three projections. They’ll appreciate your thoroughness.
Your lender will become one of the many “partners” on which you’ll depend as you seek to get your concept off the ground. Even if you don’t form a true partnership and own the business yourself, you’ll need to collaborate and rely on a host of others: an accountant, a banker, a financial advisor, a business lawyer, possibly a tax lawyer, contractors, designers, possibly architects, city officials, food vendors, equipment suppliers, marketing and public relations consultants … this list goes on and on.
The point is, opening a new pizzeria, even when you’ve done it before, is far from easy. The road to success is ripe with pitfalls. There are hundreds, maybe even thousands, of decisions that need to be made (some menial, others huge). It’s a long trek that can be rewarding, but only the strongest survive.

One commonly overlooked aspect of dough management is that of temperature control. Temperature, temperature, temperature — our life in the store revolves around temperatures. The temperature of the cooler and oven, the holding temperature of the food on the lunch buffet, the temperature of the freezer, even the temperature of the room is generally known and regularly monitored, but temperatures as they relate to the dough are seldom, if ever, taken. If you are one of those who do take the temperature of anything that will allow you to stick a thermometer into it, I applaud you. Otherwise, read on.
Dough is made with yeast, and yeast is a living organism (just like us). And just like us, it responds to its environment in a predictable manner. In general, higher temperatures accelerate yeast activity and lower temperatures depress it.
If you use active dry yeast you must rehydrate and activate it before adding it to the mixing bowl. This is done using warm water at 100 to 105F. If the temperature is outside of this range damage can be done to the yeast. This will adversely affect the performance of the dough. The same can be said for instant dry yeast. While not generally rehydrated, in some instances it is necessary to rehydrate it prior to use — such as when the vertical cutter mixer is used and very short mixing times are employed (75 to 120 seconds). With active dry yeast the recommended water temperature for rehydrating the yeast is 95F. It is well recognized that if this water temperature is off by only 5F, measurable damage to the yeast will be sustained. This just can't be good for dough consistency. The best way to guarantee that the water is at the correct temperature for rehydrating the yeast is to use a thermometer to measure the water temperature before adding the yeast to it.
Then there is the finished dough temperature. This sets the stage for the way the dough will perform during our dough management period (and to a great extent it will also influence the way the dough handles during forming and even the way it bakes up). There are a lot of things hinging on the finished dough temperature that are all very important to us, so is it any wonder that this could possibly be the single most important temperature there is to measure?
When we add the ingredients to the mixing bowl each ingredient has its own temperature, then when the dough is mixed, friction is developed between the moving dough and the sided of the mixing bowl. This friction raises the dough temperature during mixing.
The temperature of the room also influences the finished temperature of the dough. To control the temperature of the dough we typically adjust the temperature of the water that is added to the dough. In most cases a finished dough temperature of 80 to 85F is desirable. So the question that now begs to be asked is how do I know what the water temperature needs to be to give me the desired finished dough temperature?
There is a simple formula that can be followed to give you that "magic" number. Here it is: 3 X desired finished dough temperature minus the sum of the flour temperature, room temperature and friction factor. There is a formula for figuring the friction factor too, but space does not permit me to go into those details at this time so we will use the number "30" for our friction factor. Here is a typical working example of the formula: We want our finished dough temperature to be 80F. The room temperature is 75F, the flour temperature is 72F. Our formula at work: 3 X 80 = 240. Next, subtract the sum of 75 + 72 + 30, which is 177. This gives us 63 (240 minus 177). The correct water temperature to add to this dough would be 63F. If you need to make any further adjustments to the water temperature to get the finished dough temperature right where you want it, adjust the water temperature in 5F increments either higher or lower and you will be able to steer the finished dough temperature to where you want it.
The finished dough temperature is so important because it sets the stage for the way the dough will perform during the forming and baking stages. If the dough temperature is too high you may experience problems with either wet doughs due to sweating or blown doughs due to excessive fermentation. If the finished dough temperature is too low the dough may not receive sufficient fermentation within the time allocated and the dough will be difficult to shape (not to mention the problems you can then experience with excessive dough memory or snap-back). If you are making pan style pizzas the dough temperature is doubly important since it can impact the length of time needed for the dough to rise (proof) to a specific height in the pan. An old trick worth mentioning here is to use one of the hot presses to form the dough skins for pan style pizzas.
The heat imparted to the dough piece during the forming operation helps to significantly reduce the time needed for the dough to rise in the pan. In some cases we have been able to eliminate the need for a final proofer (temperature and humidity controlled cabinet) when hot pressing pan style pizzas and instead just place the pans of heated dough onto a vertical pan/tray rack and cover it with a rack cover or bag and get acceptable dough proofing.
As you can see, temperatures are important as it pertains to our doughs. It's a good idea to record the room temperature, flour temperature, and the water temperature for every dough that we make.
This will allow you to, at a glance, determine the room and flour temperatures and see what water temperature was previously used to achieve the target dough temperature. If you watch, record, and maintain your dough temperature you will be well on your way to producing more consistent performing doughs and more consistent, high quality finished pizzas.
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